Nitrate Problem?

MuralReef

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#1
So what would you do? I recently tried a new nitrate test kit and compared to my old nitrate kit which as it turns out I have high nitrates. My nitrates are coming in at around 50 ppm. My issue is this. Do I do something about it? Since giving up on SPS in this tank due to this (unknown) issue my nems, LPS, softies, and my clam are looking great. I am going to up the size of my water changes, but considering my fish load I am not sure that it will make that big of a difference. One thing I have considered is adding an additional calcium reactor containing sulfur media prior to my CaRX to reduce nitrate. So what would you guys do?
 

quackenbush

Clown Fish
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#2
Are you wanting to add SPS back? Otherwise if it aint broke...

What are your current filtration methods? Fuge? Media reactors?
 

MuralReef

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#3
Are you wanting to add SPS back? Otherwise if it aint broke...

What are your current filtration methods? Fuge? Media reactors?
I run carbon and GFO. The filter is a 4'x2' tomato bin that has a DSB with mud and sand. I currently have tons of macro including caulerpa, chaeto, some reds not sure if its dragons breath or tongue, and others, but I don't dig in there much. I have 3 marine pure 8"x8"x4" blocks and 2 of the ones that look like legos that might be 8"x4"x4". There is a single red mangrove that is looking more tree like now. I am running a huge CaRX. I am not sure if I want to add back SPS. I have some SPS in the library that is doing very well so I am almost thinking that that is enough for me.
 

DyM

Sting ray
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#4
If you only keep LPS, your nitrate level is fine as is. If you do want to lower it, easiest way is to feed less. Water changes is kind of a band aid, but could work depending on volume removed/replaced. A fuge with macro algae and or a ATS (think that stands for auto turf scrubber) attacks NO3, but also helps a bit with PO4. Macro also is a safe haven for a lot of pods and other beneficial fauna. ATS runs the same principle but is suppose to grow algae faster, thus increasing the amount of export based on size. They do require maintenance. A SO4 reactor is good for only NO3, and doesn't lower PO4. Usually PO4 is an issue as well. The great thing about the sulfur reactor is it can be dialed in very precisely. only minor adjustments are needed over time and there is no maintenance. I have the output of mine, near the skimmer and don't worry about the PH issue as when it's a few drops a second, will not impact PH in my experience. Also 2 cups of media could reduce and keep a 400 gal tank in check for more than a year, so any small reactor will do. I do believe the recirculating aspect of a cal reactor, or a SO4 reactor helps. It's possible to have a single chamber type reactor work, but it takes longer to establish, and have to go slower on increasing the output. Hope this helps.
 

MuralReef

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#5
Thanks for the feedback. I was watching your thread about it and have thought about one for a while. The system is about 500 gallons total volume and with the huge fish load I have it’s hard to feed less. My PO4 is .12 ppm so it’s not terrible but I’m pretty good about changing out the GFO.
 

TheRealChrisBrown

Reef Shark
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#7
After contemplating a sulfur reactor like DyM used, I decided to give carbon dosing a go first since it has worked for me in the past and it's cheap. My total water volume is about 225g and I went from 25-50 ppm nitrates to 2 ppm when I checked yesterday. Previously I dosed vodka, but this time I went with white vinegar. I can find the article I used if interested, was a Randy Holmes Farley one. I don't know how it scales to 500 gallons? The nice part about vinegar is it's cheap, especially at Costco.
 

ReefCheif

Reef Shark
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#8
With PO4 at .12 and NO3 at 50+ im willing to bet your system is starved for organic carbon.
 

jda123

Dolphin
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#9
If you are worried about it, then figure out why the sand and rock is now mowing down the nitrate on it's own. Sand and rock are made for this.

I used sugar effectively on a FOWLR but never needed it in a reef... if you slow it down when you get close to zero, then it can be safe if you do not go too fast. Dosing organic carbon when you are near NSW levels is a bad idea since you can go too far.... NSW is fine, below NSW is not a great idea.
 
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