Overflow Plumbing

zombie

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#1
I just got a new 65 gallon and it has two bulkheads at the moment (1" drain, 3/4" return) but I'm not sure what the best approach would be to plumb it. The options I am entertaining are:

1. Standard durso on the 1" and 3/4" pipe up to loc line split on return.

2. Cut in another 3/4" bulkhead and run standard durso on one 1", emergency overflow on tbe other and 3/4" pipe up to loc line split on return

3. Cut in another 3/4" bulkhead and run a Herbie setup on the 1" and 3/4" pipe up to loc line split on return
 
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zombie

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#3
If it is tempered, I have no idea how the bulkhead that are already cut in were cut in the first place.

I am slightly hesitant to cut another hole in just because it has taken like a year of checking Craigslist and the forums from time to time to actually find a reef ready 65 gallon. I'm kinda SOL if it cracks cutting another one, but I have heard durst is unreliable and overflows easily. I wonder if there is a way to up the reliability without cutting in another bulkhead.
 

TheRealChrisBrown

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
ex-officio
#4
What about plugging the existing holes (covered with sand in final setup), drill in some new ones near the top and do a bean animal style. They have the really slim profile overflow boxes that look really nice and don't create a ton of shadows. Something like this: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/eclipse-l-overflow-box-1000-gph-eshopps.html They have a smaller one, I don't know how much flow you are needing/wanting.
 

zombie

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#5
I don't want new holes on the back because I want the tank right up against the wall. Space is tight where it's going, so it needs to be kissing the wall.

Below is a pic of how it's currently set up. Not much room, but could accommodate a 3/4" bulkhead in the corner I think.
 

neil82

Sting ray
M.A.S.C Club Member
#6
If it is tempered, I have no idea how the bulkhead that are already cut in were cut in the first place.

I am slightly hesitant to cut another hole in just because it has taken like a year of checking Craigslist and the forums from time to time to actually find a reef ready 65 gallon. I'm kinda SOL if it cracks cutting another one, but I have heard durst is unreliable and overflows easily. I wonder if there is a way to up the reliability without cutting in another bulkhead.
I have a 90 gallon that has bulkhead holes through the bottom. Bottom pane has the tempered label. I think they cut the holes prior to tempering for factory made reef ready tanks. Could you do the Herbie and run your return up and over the outside of the tank? Maybe one of the ends so you can keep the back tight to the wall.
 

whyamisofly

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#8
I have a 90 gallon that has bulkhead holes through the bottom. Bottom pane has the tempered label. I think they cut the holes prior to tempering for factory made reef ready tanks. Could you do the Herbie and run your return up and over the outside of the tank? Maybe one of the ends so you can keep the back tight to the wall.
This would work wonderfully for you and you wouldn't have to drill any holes
 

zombie

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#9
Peninsula style? All plumbing exiting one of the sides?
Corner overflow. Unfortunately it will be up against a wall instead of in a corner, so a center overflow probably would have been better, but I don't really mind.
 

zombie

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#10
I have a 90 gallon that has bulkhead holes through the bottom. Bottom pane has the tempered label. I think they cut the holes prior to tempering for factory made reef ready tanks. Could you do the Herbie and run your return up and over the outside of the tank? Maybe one of the ends so you can keep the back tight to the wall.
True. I might consider that. I should be safe with just one pipe because I'm apex crazy and have switch inputs to blow on floats and could probably adjust everything to prevent a flood from a failure, but that sounds more airtight. The tank has to be about 1in from the wall because of the molding so I could probably fit a 3/4" pipe right through that gap.
 

TheRealChrisBrown

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
ex-officio
#11
Corner overflow. Unfortunately it will be up against a wall instead of in a corner, so a center overflow probably would have been better, but I don't really mind.
When I suggested peninsula I was still thinking of plugging any bottom drains and drilling through one of the sides. That way it could be flush with the wall, more or less. I don't think I'd attempt to poke any more holes in the bottom. I'd leave it as is run a 1" drain and 3/4" return. Your Apex prowess would give me enough assurances that it would run smoothly.
 

zombie

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#12
That might be best. What are your guys thoughts on durso, vs stockman, vs gurgle buster?
 

zombie

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#13
Does anybody know where 1.25 inch sch 26 PVC is sold locally?
 

SynDen

Administrator
Staff member
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#14
sch 26? That's not one that is readily available, but sch 40 will work just fine.
Sch 40 can be found at Lowes or HD and will work with a durso fine. Lowes usually has a better selection. If either of them dont have it I just order from supplyhouse.com
 

zombie

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#15
sch 26? That's not one that is readily available, but sch 40 will work just fine.
Sch 40 can be found at Lowes or HD and will work with a durso fine. Lowes usually has a better selection. If either of them dont have it I just order from supplyhouse.com
Thin wall PVC. It's what the guy who invented the durso reccomends
 
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