Buying Man MadeDead Dry Rock

fish26

Turbo Snail
M.A.S.C Club Member
#1
Setting up new reef tank and I'm looking at different rock options. In the past I've used live rock that has been purchased from many sources, but this time I've pretty much eliminated the live rock as an option. I'm looking for reefers with experience using Pacific East Aquaculture Real Reef, Bulk Reef Supplies Reef Saver or their Pukani or Macro Rock. Tell me the pros and cons of your purchase(s).
 

zombie

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#2
Just keep an eye on the classifieds here. Dry rock pops up all the time for $1 a pound or less and you dont have to pay for shipping.

You might be an engineer if...You have no life, and you can PROVE it mathematically.
 

Munch

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#3
Pukani will need acid baths from what I understand. The Marco and BRS Reef Saver savers are similar to one another, however, I believe leech phosphates over time. Can't explain it, but I got GHA 6 months each time I used new rock from them.

I recently switched to Real Reef manmade rock. http://realreefrock.com/

Love the stuff!
 

jmadd

Cleaner Shrimp
#4
Munch;309236 said:
Pukani will need acid baths from what I understand. The Marco and BRS Reef Saver savers are similar to one another, however, I believe leech phosphates over time. Can't explain it, but I got GHA 6 months each time I used new rock from them.

I recently switched to Real Reef manmade rock. http://realreefrock.com/

Love the stuff!
I agree with you on the leaching of PO4 from dry rock. It's crazy how much crap is trapped/locked inside of that mined dry rock. Everyone that I know who has started a tank with mined dry rock or dry rock in general always seems to have algae issues.
 

jda123

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#5
The real reef rock is surface rock only. The purple epoxy on the surface keeps a lot of water from penetrating into the middle... and the rock is very solid.

The dry rock has algae issues for several reasons, but mostly 1). there are rotting organics in it that are leaving the rock and heading into the tanks and 2). with the rotting organics the bacteria and micro fauna necessary to process the N and P are not in the rock where they would be otherwise. I have supposed that it takes 2 years for dry rock to be as good as it's ocean-based counterparts, but some of the dry rock is very solid and might take decades to get as porous as some live rock.

You can buy real live rock from the ocean by the box and be cheaper, or about the same, as dry rock. Any good LFS should be able to hook you up with this, or else keep looking around.

I don't know of a good reason to use dry rock, other than a unique 'scape, but you can even do that with real live rock (it can be out of the water for the time that it takes for mortar to dry).
 

SkyShark

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#7
jda123;309814 said:
I don't know of a good reason to use dry rock, other than a unique 'scape, but you can even do that with real live rock (it can be out of the water for the time that it takes for mortar to dry).
There is an environmental impact with taking live rock from the ocean to consider. Dry rock is not always better for the environment, but I think it is certainly something to consider.
 

SynDen

Administrator
Staff member
M.A.S.C Club Member
M.A.S.C. B.O.D.
M.A.S.C President
M.A.S.C Webmaster
#9
There is quite a few youtube videos out there about making your own rock. Basically take different sized aggregates, mix with a form of mortar and press into a simple mold.
 
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