Clams

[Coloradoreefer]

Hello all! Looking for some education on a matter if there is any out there.

Recently I have noticed that my clams (small crocea, large tear drop maxima, large squamosa and another larger maxima have been exhibiting very noticeable changes. I have one large gold crocea that is lookin like its doing okay and not showing the same signs as the other clams. They rest haven't opened up like they were and their openings ( where the water enters their gills) are extremely large. Much much more open than norm. I thought this was cool at first because its neat to see inside them, but now I'm not so sure it's a good thing. Or is it? I have never seem them do this as much as they have the last couple weeks.

Changes to the environment: Recently within the month I have added a calcium reactor. I very very slowly added this to my system. After 3 weeks I am still trying to dial it in to maintain my calcium and alk levels. I am almost there with it being dialed in. I have not let my levels fluctuate much at all, as I am very careful with my parameters. I am very concerned about the clams. They are my favorite out of anything else in this hobby and I have gone to great lengths to sustain a very suitable environment for them and until the addition of the reactor I have never noticed these changes. I'm not saying its the reactor, but has anyone ever experienced this or know of anyone that may have? I'm open to all suggestions or ways to help these guys. I'm very diligent with my tank and very on top of things. If this was a norm I would know.

Cal: 450
Mag: 1410
Kh: 9-10.5

The kh moves a little because I am still trying to dial in the reactor. The rest of the parameters are the same as I have kept my tank for years and have always had success with the clams. They aren't dying or looking like they are going to die, but their new behavior is a little alarming to me as they don't seem as happy as they were.

I appreciate any info you may have!

Happy Reefing!!

 

[Coloradoreefer]

View attachment 10559

 

[Coloradoreefer]

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[Coloradoreefer]

Are they hungry? Are they needing less light, more light? Should a fw dip help? I'm not sure what's going on with them.

 

[Coloradoreefer]

Is there anyone on this forum that truly has knowledge of these animals.. I know there is still a lot of mystery in this hobby, but maybe someone has some real honest serious education or you may know someone who does possess the education and you can show them my post, I would appreciate anything.

 

[kmellon]

Both Reefkoi and the Coral shop have clams right now and could possibly help you, but it is kind of late to hope for them to chime in.

 

[Coloradoreefer]

Thank you for the suggestion. I'm throwing out any ideas that come to mind. Maybe Chris will have some good ideas.

 

[dr.schlegs]

I got a clam from Mike at the Coral shop the other day. He said if they have a big gaping hole like that it, you should feed it. Very cool clams by the way.

 

[Coloradoreefer]

I have a very high nutrient system. I feed phyto and oyster feast once every two weeks or so. But that's a good suggestion. Maybe I should feed more.

 

[WatercolorsGuy]

I got a clam from Mike at the Coral shop the other day. He said if they have a big gaping hole like that it, you should feed.

+1
Phyto/oyster feast are good choices

 

[aztecdreams]

It's called gaping and its a sign that something is not right. I would get some advise from them or you can check out clams direct too

 

[Ghosty]

Here's a bunch of threads you can check out:

https://www.google.com/search?q=ree...7&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&ie=&oe=

Gaping:
Clams have an intake siphon and an output siphon. The intake siphon looks somewhat like a mouth and is a slit opening that is found on the center line off to one side of the mantle while the output siphon looks like a cone or rod. A clam is considered to be gaping when the intake siphon is open very wide almost like a tear. Indication of gaping vs. normal feeding would be not only that the intake siphon is open abnormally wide but that the mantle isn't extending normally and the shell is fully open. Gaping is caused by poor lighting, parasites, or poor health and if gaping continues the clam will not recover. Treatment should be examination for parasites followed by moving the clam to a higher or lower level in the tank depending on its proximity to the light source.

What to look for when purchasing Tridacnid clams - what to know about giant clams for sale:

• Watch for gaping Clams:
  Recently imported or transported clams usually exhibit a behavior called gaping. A gaping clam will appear as follows: shell fully open, mantle poorly extended, and inhalant siphon widely stretched. This eventually passes.
  Gaping will continue if the clam is kept under insufficient lighting, is damaged, or unhealthy. The mantle will begin to pull inwards, shriveling and tearing between the siphons. A healthy clam's inhalant siphon can open wide sometimes, but gaping leaves a very wide opening.
  The clam will stay like this for as long as the clam is unhealthy.
• Examine the mantle:
  The clams mantle should be colorful everywhere with no clear or white areas. Colorless areas may be the result of poor lighting, predators, or disease. A clam will quickly recover from poor lighting once conditions are improved. NOTE: It is normal for T. gigas to have clear areas near the center of their mantle.
  Also check for rips and tears in the mantle. A healthy mantle should be extended over the edge of the shell and not pulled inwards. NOTE: It is normal for H. Hippopus' mantles to not extend over the shell.
• Check the clam's reactions.
  A healthy clam should react to external stimulus by forcefully closing its shell. Newly imported and transported clams tend to react more slowly, but will improve as they regain their strength.
• Check the clam's byssus gland:
  The byssus gland should be undamaged. You should not see any torn or loose tissue hanging from the bottom of the clam. Some byssal strands may be visible, but no solid tissue hanging loose.
  Byssal gland damage isn't always visible, however. The clam may appear fine for a couple of weeks and then die suddenly for seemingly no reason.
  On the good side, byssal gland damage isn't always fatal. According to The Reef Aquarium Volume One, Delbeek and Sprung have collected and purchased damaged clams with little loss.
• Removing a giant clam:
  If the clam is attached to substrate, please take care when detaching. Lift the shell gently and insert a sharp knife, razor, or scissors and cut the threads as close as possible to the substrate. Do not cut close to the shell. You could cut into the extended byssal gland. If the clam is attached to a small rock, pebbles, etc., just leave it alone.
  The Crocea Clam T. crocea and Maxima Clam T. maxima are very sensitive about being handled like this and are best left attached if possible.

 

[Coloradoreefer]

From reading all of this it looks like this can occur when a change has occurred. I have not changed anything except the cal reactor and that shouldn't have any affect on it. The clams are all getting the same light they have been, neither stronger or dimmer and thats true for flow and water temp, salinity and everything else. I have my system under 4 AI SOLS and as stated up until about a week ago everything was fine.
I'm going to do the only things I know. Fresh water dip and a emergency water change. I'll check for rips and tears in the mantles also checking for pyramid snails and do some gentle toothbrush scrubbing around the foot. Other than that I don't know what else to do for these guys.

 

[CRW Reef]

Honestly before you fresh water dip the clams, I would try and call a few local fish stores, our sponsors TheCoralShop, ReefKoi, maybe try Keys Island too, I know Paul who works there has like 8 clams of his own and Ki is the OG of reef keeping IMO.

 

[Coloradoreefer]

I have out a call into Paul, Keys Island and another friend of mine whose been doing this for a very long time. I'll wait to do the dip.

 

[Cake_Boss]

I would never fw dip a clam.

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[The Coral Shop.com]

LIVE PHYTO!!! It's been excellent for me the store bought brightwell etc will help too but most effective imo is the live cultured I do. I've seen em start to close back up in hours sometimes... Worked wonders for me so hopefully it can help, there's a ton of different things it could be but that's always my go to first!

 

[The Coral Shop.com]

From reading all of this it looks like this can occur when a change has occurred. I have not changed anything except the cal reactor and that shouldn't have any affect on it. The clams are all getting the same light they have been, neither stronger or dimmer and thats true for flow and water temp, salinity and everything else. I have my system under 4 AI SOLS and as stated up until about a week ago everything was fine.
I'm going to do the only things I know. Fresh water dip and a emergency water change. I'll check for rips and tears in the mantles also checking for pyramid snails and do some gentle toothbrush scrubbing around the foot. Other than that I don't know what else to do for these guys.

Are you keeping tabs on params since the reactor? Alkalinity and calcium? Esp alkalinity..

 

[Coloradoreefer]

I would never fw dip a clam.

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I have done it plenty of times to get rid of puris snails and have never had a problem. Measure alk to your display, and temp with some flow and timed right, it's never failed me. Not something to do all the time by any means but when needed it helps.

 

[Coloradoreefer]

Are you keeping tabs on params since the reactor? Alkalinity and calcium? Esp alkalinity..

Yes. Everything is in check.