Enough support

Irishman

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#1
Moving my 120 and the floor joist run parallel with it. It will be sitting on 3 joist and the middle has two joist so technically 4. What's everyone's thought on this?

 

Fitz19d

Bat Fish
M.A.S.C Club Member
#2
Is it it the middle of the span or near the ends. If it's in a crawspace, a small jack is simple peace of mind and cheap. Doing mine for my basement room for the 300 I think was awful cheap for a 4x8 beam and a couple jacks.
 

SynDen

Administrator
Staff member
M.A.S.C Club Member
M.A.S.C. B.O.D.
M.A.S.C President
M.A.S.C Webmaster
#3
I think youre fine, a 120 wont need any bracing here, especially with those doubled up beams
 

Cherub

Hey you
M.A.S.C Club Member
#4
That would scare me having over 1200 pounds over 2 parallel with those joists. I would try to support them somehow. Ask an engineer. Asking a forum isn't always the greatest course of action. I mean 1200 pounds+ and then a sump? Scary, I mean at minimum add some 2x6 herringbone struts and the closer you are to foundation walls the better but I got a 120 and moved it the basement because my 80 gallon was already making the floor bounce on the main floor. and those joists were not parallel
 

Irishman

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#5
Fitz19d;671521 said:
Is it it the middle of the span or near the ends. If it's in a crawspace, a small jack is simple peace of mind and cheap. Doing mine for my basement room for the 300 I think was awful cheap for a 4x8 beam and a couple jacks.
It would span the middle, and not in a crawl space. I remember seeing your jack. Can I ask how much did that run you and if you did it yourself?
 

Fitz19d

Bat Fish
M.A.S.C Club Member
#6
I forget how much they were, just found one of the home depots with them in stock. I think it was only like 20 or 40 each and I did 2. FIL helped since he had a hammer drill and a masonry bit to get them bolted into the floor. Then went overkill with a 8x4 which that length again I completely forget but I want to say whole project was like $120. Oh and some strapping etc to mount the beam to the joists before putting the jack up. We ran them parallel under the tank which goes perpendicular across the beams. (Tank perp to the beams usually ideal to hit more)

Yours if your measurement is accurate that it is actually sitting on all 4 is pretty good though looks like a pretty long span which makes weight in the middle more of an issue. (Pros/cons to being in center vs the sides, sides increase shear stresses vs in the middle is bowing) I think a short beam that crosses all 4 beams with a single jack centered under the tank would do pretty well for reducing bowing pressure. You dont want to get the jack super tight up into the joists making counter pressure, just up until it's barely touching and maybe a quarter turn extra. Idea is it's not pressing up but is just preventing it from dropping down.

Ideally this needs to be done before tank in place or at least before filled.
 

Irishman

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#7
Much appreciate the insight Fitz
 

Irishman

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#8
And everyone else who chimed in
 
#9
Gotta be honest, I have a similar situation with my 180. The floor creaks, but it does in the whole house. How far apart are those parallel joists? How far is the run from the wall to an Ibeam? If you have room underneath, you could aways put a 2x4 to the bottom of the joist. Single 2x4s can support thousands of LBs by themselves.
 
#10
If they are the standard 2x8' 16" on center you will have no problems. Most pine 2x8s will hold between 1000 and 1300 pounds at its weakest point. It would have to be a complete floor system failure for that to be an issue. I understand your trepidation but its really wasted fear. Go for it.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
 
Top