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Frag Tank Pre-Build/Conceptualizing: Lights, Equipment

Discussion in 'Lighting and Equipment' started by Sour137, Oct 1, 2017.

  1. Sour137

    Sour137 Copepod

    Just posted that I was looking at a Kessil, then I saw your post lol.
     
  2. Cherub

    Cherub Shark M.A.S.C Club Member

    hydras are pretty easy to control. I mean it's just a phone app and you only set it up once. Maybe minor adjusting occasionally but from what I read about those A160 you will have a hard time keeping SPS. LPS and softies should be fine if that's all you want. I was looking at Kessil before going back to Hydra too. I looked long and hard at many lights really for my build. It's only 6 weeks old so the tech is the same I'm sure lol. Another 360 and daisy chain them might be better if you will keep SPS
     
  3. Sour137

    Sour137 Copepod

    Well I have 2 360s on my dt. Right now I'm just looking into one for this frag set up. There is definitely more info on the 360, so I'd like to hear some opinions. Between a 24" 4 bar t5, the prime, and the kessil 160, what am I likely to get the most par from? The t5 is the cheapest so that's what I'm looking at right now. I know the t5 will eventually be more expensive due to replacing the bulbs, but I believe I'll get a better dispersion across the 24" square than the led systems.

    I'm also somewhat interested in a similar par to the dt. The dt is a 48 inch, 75g, with the two 360s. From what I've seen on brs I should expect around 200 par at a depth of 12" beneath the lights. I have a center bar so a 3rd light wouldn't do much for but adding 2 more would be significant, and I may do that one day.
     
  4. SynDen

    SynDen Shark Staff Member M.A.S.C. B.O.D. M.A.S.C Club Member

    retro fit t5 kits are fairly inexpensive and will out perform just about any premade fixture, because of the large individual reflectors they use. They arent that hard to assemble and or mount to a canopy, board or rails.
    BRS carries kits that are pretty much complete for a lot less then you'll pay for any fixture
     
  5. Sour137

    Sour137 Copepod

    So since I would like to one day do sps, would my money be better spent upgrading my DT to metal halides, and putting a 360 on the future frag system, or doing metal halides sometime next year after I have the frag system up?
     
  6. Cherub

    Cherub Shark M.A.S.C Club Member

    you don't "NEED" metal halides for SPS. I'm doing SPS with my hydras and have kept SPS with LEDs before. Even T5 keep SPS. Having the right chemicals and flow and yes plenty of light are what SPS need but halides are really hot to run. Like a space heater
     
  7. Balz3352

    Balz3352 Marlin M.A.S.C Club Member

    Agreed are halides needed for sps... No. Coloration better debatable (id vote yes) but t5 will do just as good a job as halides with the proper equipment. I have the retrofit kit SynDen mentions on my 215 and I love them. Easy to use/install.

    If you look as the best coral shops with sps in Colorado (imo) aquatic art and gonzos they do not rely on led. Aa uses primarily halides with led supplement and gonzo uses t5 with led supplements.

    If I were you. Keep the kessil add t5 get the best of both worlds.
     
    Legonch likes this.
  8. Sour137

    Sour137 Copepod

    Ok thanks for the info about halides. With the T5 retrofit kits, how do those work? How are they different than just getting a t5 fixture? do i install those in a hood I would make or get myself?
     
  9. Sour137

    Sour137 Copepod

    To add, to my previous question, here are some costs;
    The 8 bar t5 fixture, new bulbs, hydro basin, and wood for the stand bring the cost to 456.63.
    The 4 bar t5 fixture, new bulbs, hydro basin, and wood for the stand bring the cost to 282.67
    The 4 bar retrofit, bulbs, hydro basin, and wood for the stand bring the cost to 540.93
    And the Kessil a160, hydro basin, and wood for the stand bring the cost to 317.72

    So the T5 fixture 4 bar, remains the cheapest of all options. The prices above do not include the powerhead I will need to get, the egg crate, and any unforeseen costs. The prices also reflect plumbing the frag system directly to the sump. So naturally I'm still leaning towards the T5 4 bar fixture as that leaves the most wiggle room for those unforeseen costs. Why should I choose the T5 retrofit when it is the most expensive option on the table?
     
  10. Balz3352

    Balz3352 Marlin M.A.S.C Club Member

    A lot of times reflectors on cheap fixtures almost make them not worth it. Retrofit will have individual reflectors for each bulb. That being said, what brand of fixture were you looking at.
     
  11. Sour137

    Sour137 Copepod

  12. Sour137

    Sour137 Copepod

    In the 'Ask a question' feature, some had asked about reflectors. The answer given is that there is one reflector per two bulbs.
     
  13. Balz3352

    Balz3352 Marlin M.A.S.C Club Member

    I bet you'd be fine with that fixture. Not the best but definitely could go way worse.
     
  14. Sour137

    Sour137 Copepod

    I figured since the system frag tank would be so shallow, 7 inch overall depth and probably around 5 inch minimum for corals, I wouldn't need a super powerful lamp.
     
    Balz3352 likes this.
  15. Sour137

    Sour137 Copepod

    Well, the acrylic company I used for my sump has not responded to my request for the frag tank. So today, I'm going to go down to a hydroponics store and look at the tray that I first listed in the OP. Does anyone have any experience with drilling one of these? Would I plumb it like a tank, ie: internal plumbing to bulkhead to external? What type of bit would I use to drill it?
     
  16. Cherub

    Cherub Shark M.A.S.C Club Member

    nick with ambrosio had a frag tank for sale when i was looking for one. Send him a tell
     
  17. Sour137

    Sour137 Copepod

    Denver is a bit of a drive for me. The hydroponics store I'm going to later is in Longmont which is much closer.
     
  18. jda123

    jda123 Barracuda M.A.S.C Club Member

    Go with the T5 - I would do a 6 bulb. Point source LEDs are not great for sticks in frag tanks since they shadow and stuff - you will have like a 8" circle in the middle with good coverage (BRS has PAR maps in their infomercials). If you are growing these to sell or trade, people won't want lighter backsides of corals and you will get sick of turning them. If you don't want to change all of those bulbs, get a 150W 14K Phoenix Halide on a larger reflector and just change one bulb every two years. Both of these will light acropora than a single prime or kessil.

    I have some running if you want to stop by and see - I am in Longmont.
     
  19. Cherub

    Cherub Shark M.A.S.C Club Member

    no worries, it was under a hundred so figured you could save some cash there but traveling > savings IMO too lol
     
  20. Sour137

    Sour137 Copepod

    Well all in all, I'll probably still spend less than $100 on the tank, plumbing and stand. It's the lights which are so expensive.
     
    Cherub likes this.

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