how vital is a QT tank

[daskibum]

New to this stuff. As I posted in the intro area, the little woman won a Reefer 170. We have it set up and cycling. Debating the next steps now. Hopefully can get ideas at the reef show this weekend. That all said, I have been doing tons of reading and with all the differing opinions on everything am getting not very far. The one thing that seems unanimous is the QT tank. How vital is the QT tank going to be? We don't really have space for one right now and won't for a few years. We don't want to do a big setup with a lot of stuff. We figure on a few fish (clowns and dunno what else yet) a few cleaner crew and a few basic corals. We aren't planning on switching stuff out or to be constantly adding things. Given that we will get the initial setup done and leave it be, how bad is it we don't run a QT tank? Suppose it will be ok for an initial setup that we won't really mess with for a few years?

Second... how horrid is my rock work? Hopefully a few corals will work on this thing?

 

[Balz3352]

Is it necessary? No is it strongly suggested to protect your tank and it's inhabitants? Yes.

No complaints on the rock work whatever makes you happy,

 

[MuralReef]

I think the tank looks great. Since you're not looking at big fish you could set up a 10 gallon as a QT. Definitely QT your fish though.

 

[Irishman]

I think Aquamart has something where they can do QT for you. Might be something you want to ask them if you can't get one set up your self.

 

[FishTV]

QT, QT, QT!!! When it comes to fish, QT! When you start talking Coral, Dip, Dip, and then Dip them again! This is not a good hobby for short cuts. Ultimately you are responsible for the care of animals, fish, and coral in your charge. Don't trust Aqua Mart, or anyone else to do this, This is really your responsibility, and yours alone. I'll never tell you not to dip one of my corals, for that matter, I'll never put a coral from ANYBODY in my tank that hasn't been dipped, and that's still a risk without a quarantine process in place. Trust us on this, most of us have made the mistake, and it only takes one, so trust us, because this is a miserable road to travel! There is no shortage of sad stories on this forum, and the one responsible is usually the person typing the post.

 

[JoshHill83]

QT, QT, QT!!! When it comes to fish, QT! When you start talking Coral, Dip, Dip, and then Dip them again! This is not a good hobby for short cuts. Ultimately you are responsible for the care of animals, fish, and coral in your charge. Don't trust Aqua Mart, or anyone else to do this, This is really your responsibility, and yours alone. I'll never tell you not to dip one of my corals, for that matter, I'll never put a coral from ANYBODY in my tank that hasn't been dipped, and that's still a risk without a quarantine process in place. Trust us on this, most of us have made the mistake, and it only takes one, so trust us, because this is a miserable road to travel! There is no shortage of sad stories on this forum, and the one responsible is usually the person typing the post.

+100!!!!!

 

[SynDen]

The first fish you put in there wont really need a qt, it can go straight in, but after that you are playing Russian roulette. You may get away with it a few times, but eventually it will get you. So weigh your investment and time in everything in the tank, and then determine whether you are willing to risk a total lose scenario. If you can accept total lose along with rebuild cost, then go without. Otherwise keep a QT and QT everything, including corals.

You dont need it setup and running all the time either, you can break it down and set it up as needed and with a smaller tank you wont need it very often, but when you do, you will be super thankful you had one.
Keep a 10g with a basic filter and a heater in the closet, and keep a filter pad in your main tank for instant cycling, and you are pretty much good to go.

 

[CRW Reef]

+1 to what Angel said

 

[rjl45]

The first fish you put in there wont really need a qt, it can go straight in, but after that you are playing Russian roulette. You may get away with it a few times, but eventually it will get you. So weigh your investment and time in everything in the tank, and then determine whether you are willing to risk a total lose scenario...

This is probably the best I have seen it described. Early on, you don't have much invested and therefore not risking as much. However, as your tank matures and you have spent time and money, the risk grows in kind.

Let's be honest, we won't lose any sleep over losing a $1 snail or hermit. Maybe even a cheap damsel... Never want to kill any of our animals, but we have all lost something... But let's say, you now have invested $2000 into coral and fish. That hurts if it's a total loss. Many here have invested WAY more than 2k.

With all that said, it is better to start good habits early and stick to it. You will be rewarded for your diligent effort.

 

[daskibum]

Will look into a small setup. I apologize in advance, but we will stop by the booth this weekend and ask a lot of questions...

 

[SynDen]

Will look into a small setup. I apologize in advance, but we will stop by the booth this weekend and ask a lot of questions...

No apoligies needed, we are all here because we had/have lots of questions

 

[daskibum]

No apoligies needed, we are all here because we had/have lots of questions

lol. You say that now but you haven't met the 40 million questions g/f...

 

[Jetman357]

I was going to ask this same question. I hope you don't mind if I ask a few questions on your post daskibum?

I want to QT my corals as well. What kind of light should I put on the QT tank for that?

How long do you guys QT corals and fish.

I have a power filter with bio wheels for my QT. Could I just set the bio wheels in the sump of my main system and would it be just as good as a filter pad?

Also I don't mind running it 24-7. Do you guys think that would be better or should I just run as needed? If running it 24-7 do you ghost feed?

What about inverts like crabs and snails or shrimp. Would you QT these animals also? If so how long?

 

[daskibum]

Ask away. The g/f is driven crazy because I am not a big question asker on... well... anything. So anything you ask is actually very helpful to me as well.

 

[Texco]

I recently tore my display down and threw out all live rock and sand and recycled it after almost two years. My coral would not grow- infested with parasites. My fish would always get sick and die after removing constantly for quarantines and stressing them out.

I now have a fish quarantine tank and a coral quarantine tank. Every piece of coral is dipped multiple times, and observed in isolation before going in my display. Every fish is observed in quarantine before going in my display.

Tank is stable, some LPS corals are double their normal sizes, and all fish have a color they had not ever shown before.

Quarantine, quarantine, and quarantine.

 

[Texco]

I was going to ask this same question. I hope you don't mind if I ask a few questions on your post daskibum?

I want to QT my corals as well. What kind of light should I put on the QT tank for that?

How long do you guys QT corals and fish.

I have a power filter with bio wheels for my QT. Could I just set the bio wheels in the sump of my main system and would it be just as good as a filter pad?

Also I don't mind running it 24-7. Do you guys think that would be better or should I just run as needed? If running it 24-7 do you ghost feed?

What about inverts like crabs and snails or shrimp. Would you QT these animals also? If so how long?

I run a small kessil or chinese led on my coral quarantine to keep them happy, fish treatment tank just uses natural lighting in the room it is in

QT fish for 2 weeks and treat with preventative meds of my choice and if ich is present then 6-8 weeks with 2 weeks of copper treatment to begin

hang on back biowheel is what I use in both quarantines, in the fish quarantine remove carbon and media and just run a sponge you will need to rely on water changes during this period. leaving it in sump would be ideal if breaking down and setting up quarantine

I got tired of monitoring a quarantine 24/7 when not in use and just break down, put in garage and set up as needed (10g quarantine tank)

I also quarantine inverts and crabs and shrimp in coral tank which is my general observation tank, fish tank used for treating with meds and corals are dipped outside of the tank (coral quarantine tank is assumed sterile, but nothing goes into display tank from it. Fish go into their own quarantine and then the display, and corals are dipped again before going into display from quarantine tank)

 

[szavoda]

The first fish you put in there wont really need a qt, it can go straight in, but after that you are playing Russian roulette. You may get away with it a few times, but eventually it will get you. So weigh your investment and time in everything in the tank, and then determine whether you are willing to risk a total lose scenario. If you can accept total lose along with rebuild cost, then go without. Otherwise keep a QT and QT everything, including corals.

You dont need it setup and running all the time either, you can break it down and set it up as needed and with a smaller tank you wont need it very often, but when you do, you will be super thankful you had one.
Keep a 10g with a basic filter and a heater in the closet, and keep a filter pad in your main tank for instant cycling, and you are pretty much good to go.

I don't understand the logic here. If your first fish have Ich and you just put them straight into the main tank, it won't matter if you QT the fish after that since they will be introduced into an infected system.

 

[SynDen]

If your first fish in has ich then dont put any more fish in it until it is gone and then its a non issue

 

[szavoda]

Ok - So how do you get rid of it safely once in your DT? How do you identify it when it is living in the gills of fish that do not show symptoms on their skin?

With all respect, introducing fish into a DT without QT and expecting to "cure" them after the fact is a losing proposition.

 

[Texco]

Ok - So how do you get rid of it safely once in your DT? How do you identify it when it is living in the gills of fish that do not show symptoms on their skin?

With all respect, introducing fish into a DT without QT and expecting to "cure" them after the fact is a losing proposition.

Bingo. A fish with ich will not treat itself, it must be quarantined or else the ich will contaminate your DT and infect all fish that go into it. I assume all new fish have something and that is why they are all put in quarantine for observation. During this observation time it is a lot easier to look for issues and treat them.