Quarantine tank disaster

Rumen

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#21
To raise ph... Have u tried opening up doors to the stand or canopy or the Window to the house to get some fresh air to the tank or add kalk to ur top off... it always seem to work for me. ... just in my experience. ..

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 4
 

greennate

Users with zero posts needing moderation to determine if they are spam bots
#22
ya, my stand is open. i open my windows on warm days. I does help some,
I use brs soda ash to raise ph maybe something else works better? To get my ph up to 8.2 my alk goes up to 14.
after lots of reads on forums i just ignore it, only 2 corals look unhappy and they have been slowly receding since the day i bought them.
A purply blue moon coral and a yellow and green goniatsria - just very very slowy fading away. my lobo's dont do well either.
 

fonduecat

Cleaner Shrimp
#23
jda123;280200 said:
Did you measure the ammonia a few days later? It could have quickly spiked up after the tang died in it. Nitrate too.

Change water out of your display into the QT tank. You know that water is safe and has bacteria in it.

I would recommend copper of hypo. Lots of fish won't stand hypo and some can get brain damage if they live. Besides, unless you are going to fallow your display, then the ich will always be in there, so the QT is really just a good disease-free start to make sure that the fish are eating and doing well before being put in with the others. I typically QT all fish that will fit into my QT tank, only put in copper if I need it and just make sure that they are fat and happy before going into gen pop. I don't QT my corals in fallow systems for 60 days, so ich could get into my tank on any frag at any time. I have no illusions that my tank will be ich free, but I do have fish that are not affected by ich.
I measured everything after the tang and before putting in the wrasse, all levels were normal. I will have to look into doing copper instead, I had no idea hypo could be so bad for the fish. The clown I'm worried about is already an odd ball, I'd hate to damage him more.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
 

ReefCheif

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
Platinum Sponsor
#24
Heres an idea, quit chasing PH, and quit jacking other peoples threads, just sayin!

Wasnt this thread about a QT issue and developing ich while in QT? How did this end up talking about NeonNate's... I mean GreenNate's PH. LMAO!

Now, back on subject. What temp do you keep your QT tank? I reccomend a slightly elevated temp in QT, I keep mine around 82. The higher temp helps stop the life cycle of the crypto (real name for saltwater ich). Also, when having fish in QT I reccomend small, but daily or every other day water changes. I myself use a 40 breeder as a QT and when housing fish I do a 5 gallon water change every other day, I feed heavy with algeas and garlic and I DONT USE COPPER!

Believe it or not, I would reccomend hypo before I reccomend copper, and if you use copper plan on doubling the QT time as you get the water back to normal perameters. Reason is this, copper destroys the fish's immune system and it can get to a point where only the copper in the tank is keeping the fish healthy, so you slowly have to remove the copper fomr the water so the fish can build its immune system back up. If you added it to DT right after QT in these conditions the outcome will not likely be pretty for the fish. Ive actually killed an ich outbreak on my 180gal wihtout the use of any chemicals, without the loss of any fish or corals in the process, simply by a hearty diet and elevated temperatures.

I wrote up an article a while back for my own reference on my dealings with crypto, I was gonna post it, but Im my own worst critic, so Ive kept it private. Id be happy to send you a PDF copy if you would like to read about my personal methods and expericnes, it may help, it may not, would be much easier than posting it all here.
 

jda123

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#25
You can go hypo or copper with about equal results IMO. If you go hypo, then stay away from butterflies, most wrasses and some others that I am forgetting. If you go copper, then also some butterflies.

I keep my qt tank about 1.018 and then if the fish show signs of disease, I put in just enough copper safe to stop the cycle... this is way less than the amount required to kill the parasite on the fish (which can be a lot)... like 1/4 of the normal dose. This gets the fish feeling good and ready to go.

In addition to garlic, which I do think helps, ginger is also a nice additive for disease. The evidence is all anecdotal, just like the garlic, but I believe it.

The best thing about QT is that if you can get your fish to eat pellets, then you can always soak them in even more garlic if something should happen in the tank.
 

fonduecat

Cleaner Shrimp
#26
I think they mystery may have been solved.... My friend helped me set up the tank and when talking about it, we realized a fatal flaw we didn't think about (No more setting up tanks late at night!) The PVC pipe we got for the tank was covered in stickers and we generously used goo-gone and believe we didn't wash the parts off enough that it contaminated the tank. We drained the tank and now need to figure out the best way to clean it to get rid of any left over residue.
 
#27
fonduecat;282270 said:
I think they mystery may have been solved.... My friend helped me set up the tank and when talking about it, we realized a fatal flaw we didn't think about (No more setting up tanks late at night!) The PVC pipe we got for the tank was covered in stickers and we generously used goo-gone and believe we didn't wash the parts off enough that it contaminated the tank. We drained the tank and now need to figure out the best way to clean it to get rid of any left over residue.
That would do it. Goo gone had a citrus based oil residue that is a b**ch to get rid of. I prefer evaporative methods of glue romoval. Alcohol based methods...

Sent from my Note 3
 

Matt_Arian

For Stuffing!
M.A.S.C Club Member
#28
Ah ha! Finally I can throw in my own .02 on the matter. Most types of "residue" left by a cleaning product, notably Goo-Gone, is usually oil based, so any type of surfactant will remove it. The trick is finding one that's tank friendly after rinsing. Luckily, soda ash in a heated water solution will leave it cleaner than a whistle (FYI, hardwood fire ashes are an excellent substitute). You should be able to find some cleaning mixture ratios online. Just remember, it is a caustic solution, so wear some chemical resistant gloves (no latex or dish gloves, we're talking industrial chemical resistant gloves), protective eye wear and spare clothing, just in case you splash or spill.
 

fonduecat

Cleaner Shrimp
#29
Matt_Arian;287159 said:
Ah ha! Finally I can throw in my own .02 on the matter. Most types of "residue" left by a cleaning product, notably Goo-Gone, is usually oil based, so any type of surfactant will remove it. The trick is finding one that's tank friendly after rinsing. Luckily, soda ash in a heated water solution will leave it cleaner than a whistle (FYI, hardwood fire ashes are an excellent substitute). You should be able to find some cleaning mixture ratios online. Just remember, it is a caustic solution, so wear some chemical resistant gloves (no latex or dish gloves, we're talking industrial chemical resistant gloves), protective eye wear and spare clothing, just in case you splash or spill.

That's a strong clean up project. I ended up rinsing it out more times than I care to count, wiping it out and rinsing it again, and repeating. I filled it up, but am to scared to put anything in it.

In unrelated news I think I have a semi used tank to sell :-D

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
 
Top