Ryan's (mostly) DIY 40 Breeder

Balz3352

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#21
ryewalk84;639142 said:
Need some input for my overflow.

Option 1-
Herbie with one overflow and 2 3/4 inch drains

Option 2-
Herbie with 2 overflows but have them offset so one functions as the full siphon and the other as the emergency

Option 3-
Durso with two overflows

Right now I am leaning towards option 1.
You drilling yourself? If so one overflow bean animal
 
#22
Balz3352;n639186 said:
You drilling yourself? If so one overflow bean animal

I am but only purchased 2 bulkheads for this build. Didn't really know there were different options of overflows until the last few days when I started reading up on it.
 

zinovate

Anthias
M.A.S.C Club Member
#23
I agree with Chris on the MarinePure. He turned me onto it a year ago and it's great. I saw a video online where they made a small stand for it to keep it off the bottom, making it easier to keep your sump clean. He used lighting diffuser from HD or Lowes with some zip ties make it.
 
#25
Balz3352;n639202 said:
Bulkheads are cheap. Buy one more you're set
Arguably (mostly agreed upon) best drain out there
I'm contemplating it, but the lay out I am planning is going to be completely different compared to the images I've seen of the bean. In my head it should work, but will need to really read up on it before I start drilling.
 
#26
I've been designing the plumbing and have a large variable pump from the return I had on my 300. I'm going to use it for the return to the tank and also split it off for a manifold that will power the flow in my in sump frag tank, recirc skimmer and two additional outputs that I can hook my two little fishies reactors up to for carbon and other media if needed. The pump is rated for 3000+ at 0 head so should be plenty.

Input is greatly appreciated if you see any issues. specifically,if I should have valves on the outputs of all the returns to control both the left and right sides or if one to control both is fine.
 

Miah2bzy

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#28
Stand looks great! If the magents don't end up working out I used wood toggles that I attached to the top and bottom of each piece, I built mine the same way with the panels fitting in and found the toggles worked better than magnets.
 
#29
Well the fish are in quarantine. The wild caught high fin goby is eating everything while the ORA fish are barely interested or spit the food out. Figured it would have been the other way around. Hopefully they will start eating as well.

 
#30
Managed to get a coupon and a price match on bulk reef so bought the marine pure last week. It arrived yesterday. Super stoked about the potential these things seem to have.
 
#31
Overflow is in and baffles are siliconed into the sump. Cured for a week and leak tested for another week. Looks like I'm in business. Next step will be building the light and plumbing everything together.
 

TheRealChrisBrown

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
ex-officio
#32
Looking good! If you know any reefers around you you could toss that MarinePure block in their sump and let it start colonizing. Then when you are ready you can add it to your sump and it will help speed your cycle and seed your tank with some good beneficial bacteria. Just a thought.
 
#33
TheRealChrisBrown;645575 said:
Looking good! If you know any reefers around you you could toss that MarinePure block in their sump and let it start colonizing. Then when you are ready you can add it to your sump and it will help speed your cycle and seed your tank with some good beneficial bacteria. Just a thought.
I have a tank of live rock that is cycled and ready to go in once it's filled. Not a bad idea though. I also have a bottle of seachem's bacteria. Used that to get my quarantine tank going. Either that stuff works incredibly well or my test kits are duds because I can never measure any ammonia or nitrates in that tank.
 
#35
Well the LEDs are wired up and have some power. Having a bit of a problem with the PWM on them. When powered and hooked up to the apex but not receiving a signal from the apex channels will light up slightly. Kind of annoying but not the end of the world if I can't figure it out I guess.

I was hoping for around 600 par and 10-12k at 6 inches from the light and then would dim down from there. May have gone a little overkill because I'm getting readings around 900 to 1000 par at 6 inches and a kelvin in the 9-10k range. Happy with the color and I can adjust what I need to in order to cut the par down.
 
#36
Got some readings and the reviews of inaccuracy/all over the place on the Seneye are pretty legit. Managed to get a really good deal on it so I bought it instead of a par meter. Now this was just a quick test and nothing scientific about it, but readings were jumping around in a range of 200-400 and kelvin would jump from 10k to 33k. I can see some variation but I think that's a bit excessive.

Anyway, I tried doing some readings at the top mid and bottom of the tank. LEDS were at 100% and don't have lenses on them. Right now the drivers are connected in the following 4 channels. Will eventually be 6 or possibly 8 down the road.

Lime/Amber
Blue/Cyan/Deep red
Royal blue/Violet
Neutral white

Readings to come.
 
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