Upflow Algae Scrubber UAS

rjl45

Clown Fish
#22
Did a couple water tests and the results are encouraging: nitrates 10ppm, phosphate 0.1 ppm. Both of these numbers are half of what they were last week.

First pic was 14 days ago, second is yesterday. Both are close-ups of my GSP, same area of the tank. It's subtle, but I do believe the scrubber is helping. The whole tank shots don't show it as clearly.
 

JodiI

Administrator
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M.A.S.C Club Member
M.A.S.C. B.O.D.
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#23
That seems like a significant difference! Since your sand is black it's not as obvious as with white sand, but there does seem to be significantly less algae on the sand
 

rjl45

Clown Fish
#24
Thanks! Fortunately I didn't start with a big algae problem; it was just beginning to be an issue. It was primarily on the sand, and not much on the rock. I'm very happy with the progress so far and I'm very optimistic that this will be the solution for my small nano.
 

rjl45

Clown Fish
#26
Day 21 update: NO3- 15ppm, PO4- 0.25ppm: Numbers have slightly increased from last week. The scrubber has more algae than last week, still more of a slime algae than hair.


I did notice a build up of algae in the DT about 2 days ago, and now looking at the screen, I should have pulled the scrubber 2 days ago for a cleaning. The slime algae does not grow as thick and needs to be cleaned more frequently for the scrubber to be effective. Slime will still pull nutrients from the water column, but it grows in a thin mat and blocks the light to the base, potentially killing off the "roots", releasing nutrients back into the water. I suspect that might have been the case because the slight increase in nutrients.
 

rjl45

Clown Fish
#27
Day 28 update: NO3- 15ppm, PO4- 0.25ppm: Numbers held the same all week, did not climb or lower. Because I've been getting slime algae in the scrubber, I cleaned the screen 3 times this week. It was fascinating; after 2 days, algae started to appear on the sand, I pulled the scrubber and cleaned it. Within 12 hours the sand was clear. 2 days later, the sand started getting algae, pulled the scrubber and same thing, 12 hours and clear again. Moreover, my acrylic had film algae on Monday, and because I had a busy week, I ignored it all week. By today the acrylic was clear. I am a fan of algae scurbbers.
 

rjl45

Clown Fish
#28
Day 35: NO3- 10ppm, PO4- 0.15ppm. Not going to post a photo of the screen again...looks identical to the one above, slime algae still, and cleaning it 2-3 times a week. Been reading about that, and decided that I should up my photo period on the scrubber from 18 to 21 hours. I also removed the diffuser a week ago. We'll see what happens this week. Other noteworthy items. I did not have to clean the acrylic at all in 7 days. This is a HUGE improvement compared to the need to clean every day when I started this project. Another interesting note, the sand is no longer growing algae, but now my rock has some hair algae in spots (circled below in photo). Again, was reading about this, and it is very interesting to see how the sand and rock can act like a sink and absorb nutrients when nutrients are high in the water column, and then release it as the nutrients in the water are reduced. Clearly the sand released stored nutirents first and reached a balance, hence why I had algae blooms showed there first. Now that the sand has reach equilibrium, the rock is now leaching nutrients, resulting in algae growth on the rock where the transfer is occuring. Once the rock stops leaching and reaches equilibrium with the water column, I expect I will then start to see a more significant decline in measured NO3 and PO4.


Through the course of this project, I have not increased the bioload, same number of fish, same feeding schedule and amount, same lighting, etc... I have completely removed my mechanical (foam) and chemical (purigen) filtration. My system is now 100% biofiltration, live rock & sand, and algae scrubber. I have maintained my biweekly 20% water change schedule and siphon as much detritus off the sand and rock as I can during WC. I am excited about the progress so far and my aquarium has never looked better!
 
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rjl45

Clown Fish
#29
Day 39: so... I forgot to clean the acrylic for over a week, maybe longer, where the light shines in, ... lol oops! The scrubber will work better if light can actually get in.

Note to self: when cleaning the scrubber, take a moment and clean the acrylic too.
 

CRW Reef

Blue Whale
M.A.S.C Club Member
ex-officio
#30
Happy to see that actually. Does that mean the scrubber is working great now? Assuming glass is cleaned?
 

rjl45

Clown Fish
#31
Haha yup! Cleaned the glass and brushed off the scrubber. All ready for another few days. I am watching it closely right now, because still getting slime... But the color is shifting from the really dark, almost black algae to a rich green. From what I have read, this is a strong indication that the lighting is right and everything is starting to fall into place.

So far I have been very happy with the scrubber, even though I have yet to pull out a big handful of green stuff, it has stabilized my water parameters significantly, which really was my ultimate goal.
 

rjl45

Clown Fish
#32
Day 42: NO3- 10ppm, PO4- 0.15ppm. Cleaned the glass and screen 3 days ago and everything still looking good. Below are before and after photos for 3 days of scrubbing. Still dark slime, but I am getting hair algae starting on the sides.


Doesn't look like much on the screen, but take a look at the water after I scrubbed it clean.

I still have some minor hair algae growing on the rocks, but I expect that for another month or so, but time will tell. BTW, look at that acan grow :D

If you look close, there are some places where the algae is growing on the rocks, but overall, the tank is looking good. I may not be matching the results some people have shown, but I have accomplished my goal of stabilizing my system. That really is the ultimate goal, right? lol
 

Fitz19d

Bat Fish
M.A.S.C Club Member
#33
Great that it's working for you. I havnt done an ATS, especially upflow yet. I know limited to a smaller tank so can't do the conventional type. Have you re-looked things over see if you are missing something in technique? Just seems odd you get like all slime and minimal actual algae.
 

rjl45

Clown Fish
#34
I have been looking at every part, thinking the same thing. I have read a ton on the topic looking for 'what might have gone wrong'. Dark slime algae is caused by; screen not rough enough, not enough light, not intense enough light, not enough airflow, or air not running up the screen.

For the first 2 weeks, the advice was "let it get started". The next 2 weeks advice was "adjust the lighting, photo period and intensity" but that's also when i realized i needed to clean the slime off more frequently. I also have been slowly adjusting my photo period and intensity. I try to never do anything quickly in my system (even though this I probably could have). In the last week, I am starting to get hair algae on the edges, so maybe I have finally dialed it in.

As far as I can tell, I have the correct air flow (4 lpm). That's the next thing to adjust, there are unusual circumstances where the upflow scrubber gets too much airflow. The air is running up the screen but maybe i could tilt the scrubber for more air contact on the screen. Light is on 22hrs now.

Anyone have other ideas? This is all part of the fun of a DIY project :D I could have spent $200 and bought a refined and professionally made scrubber from Santa Monica, but this is way more fun.
 

Walter White

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#36
Perhaps this was mentioned above, but you ate not using any gfo or carbon dosing are you? My knee jerk thought is maybe you just dont have enough nutrients? Do you have any measurable nitrates or phospahtes?
 

Walter White

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#38
Also I useed a larger 2-2.5" airstone and got better results than just a perforated air tube. Have you considerded/tired that? I found the more air and smaller bubbles I got moving across the screen the better it worked. Just a thought
 

Walter White

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#39
Fitz19d;n643066 said:
He's been listing his measurements. Unsure of where he stands now
Ahh I see that now. Hmm my thought would be to try an airstone instead. Sorry if that was already doer Im a work right now so not a lot of time to look back at the thread.
 

rjl45

Clown Fish
#40
Balz3352;643063 said:
Is the air actually bubbling up the mat?
Yes it is, I have checked. Great question. I'm thinking I might place a spacer at the bottom to tilt the scrubber a little so I get more air contact on the screen.

Walter White;643065 said:
Perhaps this was mentioned above, but you ate not using any gfo or carbon dosing are you? My knee jerk thought is maybe you just dont have enough nutrients? Do you have any measurable nitrates or phospahtes?
No GFO or carbon. When I started, I did have a bag of purigen, but removed that about 3 weeks ago. Regarding nutrient levels, I would not consider nitrate at 10ppm & phosphate 0.15ppm high, but it's not zero. Honeslty, I'm not worried about getting to 0, don't have any sps and don't prescribe to the belief that the system must be nutrient free. My primary goal is stability :)
Walter White;643067 said:
Also I useed a larger 2-2.5" airstone and got better results than just a perforated air tube. Have you considerded/tired that? I found the more air and smaller bubbles I got moving across the screen the better it worked. Just a thought
I have considered it. The original design I had planned was going to use an airstone, but then read that it can get clogged up with algae, and the slots were easier to clean.

I appreciate the feedback and ideas! I'm going to add a spacer at the bottom and run another week. If nothing changes, I'll switch to an airstone. Thanks!
 
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