Your Suggestions and Recommendations = My Tank Build

newtoreef

Bat Fish
M.A.S.C Club Member
#21
1-2 pounds per gallon I just set up a 72gall bowfront can see it on the build thread . I used 55 pounds of dry Marco rock and about 120pounds of sand total tank and sump bit the more rock the better, but with small tanks like ours we either sacrifice space for more rock or a little less rock and make it look nice imo. Since I have less rock I am going to be doing 5 gal water change every week to keep things happy!
 

newtoreef

Bat Fish
M.A.S.C Club Member
#22
Also to determine flow you need to 1st know what you are going to be keeping for coral softy corals or stony coral . Stony ( sps ) need higher flow rates where softy (Lps) don't need as much hope that helps a little
 

BPreefer

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#23
Great to see you back. Thought we lost you. Lol. I also went on the light side with the rock on my new build. I like the extra space for the corals to grow out. You can always put more live rock in the sump to keep the tank more open. As far as flow, I had 2 tunze 6045 with the mag 9.5 return and it was plenty of flow to keep sps happy as well as everything else.
 

jda123

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#24
I would use cycled live rock for at least half of your load. It can take years for the anoxic bacteria to grow inside of dead rock. Healthy rock and healthy sand = an easy and stable tank with years and years of operation without nitrate or phosphate issues.

I also think that you will need to supplement light.
 

Reef_Newbie

Goby
M.A.S.C Club Member
#25
This tank is finally going to get some love. Hope to have my first fish in it within a month or two.

Just purchased 70lbs of dry rock and a full RO/DI setup.
 
#28
You could post some pics of your setup while you wait...hint, hint lol
 

Reef_Newbie

Goby
M.A.S.C Club Member
#29
Good_GReef;281290 said:
You could post some pics of your setup while you wait...hint, hint lol
Picture 1: LEDs

Picture 2: Skimmer(should I drop this in the tank and give it a bath too?)

Picture 3: What will be the quarantine tank.

Picture 4: Newly stained top with hinge.

Picture 5: 75Gal tank/sump/refugium getting a bath
 

opakapaka

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#30
Im glad you're gonna finally put those lights to good use.
 

Reef_Newbie

Goby
M.A.S.C Club Member
#31
Tonight I will be cleaning out all of the vinegar water and getting this equipment shining crystal clear.

Rock(60 lbs reef saver 10 lbs tonga), refracto, Reef Starter Test Kit, and BRS 4 stage RO/DI showed up last night from my black Friday splurge.

I am hoping to get in touch with Brent so he can show me how he had the plumbing on the tank setup, and if I can get that going the tank could have some water in it sometime soon.

Questions I have for you guys:

My dry rock is here - do I need to start "conditioning" it outside of the tank or since this is a fresh start can all of that take place in the main tank? I realize it is going to take 4-6 weeks to get the rock moving along, but I didn't know if it is OK to do it in the main tank? Do I add all the BRS Reef Saver rock to the display tank and keep the Tonga out of the main tank and in a bucket somewhere while checking PH levels?

I've got 2 plumbed holes in the bottom of my tank. I think I am supposed to fill these with Bulkheads(sp?) which will allow me to plumb to sump?

What are the little invaluable pieces of equipment I am going to need to have lying around? Any little things you buy once and never think about, but are used often?

I believe the last large purchases I need to make are two powerheads for the system to create flow. I understand that the salt mix, chemicals etc will add but as far as equipment goes that should get me going. This is discluding ease of life pieces like an ATO. Anyone have recommendations on powerheads to use for this tank/have any for sale?
 

jda123

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#32
Dry rock is typically full of organics. I would keep those out of the main tank. You can easily search for dry rock issues/problems and cures. Also, although it can look pretty good on the outside in a few months, it will not be fully established for up to two years - where the micro fauna are in the interior processing nitrates and phosphates from inside of the rock... so go slow and have some patience if your N and P levels start to rise since your consumers are still growing inside the rock.

BTW - Muratic Acid works better, and is cheaper, than vinegar - just don't breathe it or get it on your until you dilute it down.

I have backups of everything. Pumps, heaters, lights, etc. This is overkill, but a backup pump and heater is a good idea.
 

Reef_Newbie

Goby
M.A.S.C Club Member
#33
Thanks for the insightful reply. Do I need to worry about the Reef Saver rock as well?

I have read about having the rock in the tank at about an 80/20 ratio with some actual live rock from a LFS, which should help jumpstart the process to make it "Live".
 

Reef_Newbie

Goby
M.A.S.C Club Member
#34
Rock came in last night, and I am very happy with it. The tonga rock pieces I got(only 10 pounds) are very cool.

Pictures of all that has happened since attached.[attachment=65564:name]
 

jda123

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#35
The rock had living things on it when it was dried. The organics from those now-dead things are still on the rock... including in the deep, deep middle of the rock, not just the surface. They need to be handled... and it can really take some time.

This is a good start for the reading:
http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f6/pukani-dry-rock-curing-183703.html
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2106393

I am sorry that I missed the post where you talked about getting dry rock - I would have tried to talk you out of it. Now that you have it, I would suggest that you read up on how to get the dead organics out of it before they become a permanent addition to your tank.
 

sethsolomon

Hammerhead Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#36
jda123;281830 said:
The rock had living things on it when it was dried. The organics from those now-dead things are still on the rock... including in the deep, deep middle of the rock, not just the surface. They need to be handled... and it can really take some time.

This is a good start for the reading:
http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f6/pukani-dry-rock-curing-183703.html
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2106393

I am sorry that I missed the post where you talked about getting dry rock - I would have tried to talk you out of it. Now that you have it, I would suggest that you read up on how to get the dead organics out of it before they become a permanent addition to your tank.
As for a solution for the dead organics, soak the rock in RO/DI water for a week and it should leach out a lot of it.
 

Reef_Newbie

Goby
M.A.S.C Club Member
#40
01M5PWR;283382 said:
Nice! I wish I had a TDS meter. Fort Collins has pretty good water so I don't think I will be plugging my filters anytime soon.
I got the plus package on black Friday, so I thought why not.

On the "In" route it averages only .01 or .02 TDS which is very good, but I figure it can't hurt to still run ro/di.
 
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