So i'm looking for people who use Kessil a360w with the Reefkeeper lite and the advanced light controller who also grow sps. Specifically what i'm looking for is what settings do you use to achieve healthy sps growth without bleaching or browning. My birdsnest coral that I got about a month and a half ago bleached out a bit with ideal water parameters (minus the ph which sits at 8.1). Today I noticed a little bit of green coming back after I have dialed the intensity down. Right now i'm sitting at 95 on dim A and 86 on dim B, and I will probably dial it down a bit more before I am satisfied, so I'm curious what other people use to achieve satisfactory sps conditions.
RKL+ALC+Kessil a360w+SPS
- Thread starter Sour137
- Start date
Additionally I have 2 a360w over a 48" spaced evenly apart, and they sit about 4 inches off the surface of the water with a glass screen top and sporadic water droplets on the bottom surface of the glass top. The birdsnest sits slightly to the center of the tank and almost directly under one of the lights. I don't have a PAR meter so I can't tell you those metrics.
That distance away even 100% shouldn't bleach it. Most kessils run 350-450 about 6" from the fixture so I would expect it to be 200-350 at that distance. Shouldn't be overkill at all for that sps. You sure it's not bleaching from something else like redbugs, poor nutrients, etc?
You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.
You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.
Ok. You meant 3.25 meq/L. That's reasonable.
You could try backing the spectrum to be more blue and/or back off the intensity and see if things improve. I would definitely take a very close look to see if you have any redbugs or nudis that made it on the sps.
You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.
You could try backing the spectrum to be more blue and/or back off the intensity and see if things improve. I would definitely take a very close look to see if you have any redbugs or nudis that made it on the sps.
You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.
That's not bleaching. That's rapid tissue necrosis.
Do you have any other stinging corals nearby? Recently add something that could have changed your bacteria population? Did you drip acclimate before the dip? How long did you dip?
You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.
Do you have any other stinging corals nearby? Recently add something that could have changed your bacteria population? Did you drip acclimate before the dip? How long did you dip?
You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.
Damn. No, the only other corals I have are two green star polyps, and they are a ways away. I have added a firefish, 3 anthias, and the GSP since I got the birdsnest, other than that I have not done anything out of the ordinary. When I dipped the coral I followed the instructions on the bottle, 15 minutes and repeat after one week. I had read that drip acclimation was unnecessary. Therefore I did not. The LFS has similar water temperatures, and salinity. I did float the bag because I always do that with everything I get. Should I have drip acclimated? Is there anything I can do for it, or should I cut it out? One branch still has some green to it, can I save it?
With LPS I never bother with a drip or slow change, but I do with SPS as I did have some RTN if the source had different alk. Rather than take the time to test, I always drip acclimate (technically I do it in surges removing 25% and dumping that then filling back to top with tank water while floating) every 10 minutes for an hour or two. I follow that with a 5 minute dip of just coral rx for SPS. For LPS, I do 15 minutes and I also do a 1:5 rodi to hydrogen peroxide dip too for 5 minutes.
You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.
You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.
