WTB: Calcium reactor controller
- Thread starter blackgrouper
- Start date
If you check the classified section, I saw someone selling an apex for $250. That would be much better IMO than a dedicated reactor controller since you can do a whole lot more for not much more than you would pay for a reactor controller.
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I would highly recommend that you do not use a pH controller on your CaRx - wrought with real-life issues even though people think that it sounds good and all of that. I can show you how to run and tune a reactor without even caring what the pH is and have maximum output, use less co2 and affect your tank pH the least - it is not even hard.
I would also ignore the pH in your display and just keep alk stable (unless you are dripping kalkwasser). Knowing will not do anything if you are just going to ignore it... so why even know. I have no idea what my pH is.
Temp is very important, so get a good unit. The hobby-grade controllers are good, but people trust them way too much since they are not enterprise grade and they do fail - I would at least use a heater with a thermostat for a second source of redundancy since Apex has been known to fail with outlets stuck "on." If you want to use titanium or a heater without a thermostat and only have a single point of redundancy, then get a Ranco since they are commercial grade and trusted for all sorts of VERY expensive and important things all over the world and nobody has ever seen one fail in the "on" position. Inkbird is a cheap and somewhat short lived solution that some people like to use - I would not trust this unit alone either. I use a Ranco and then have thermostats on the heaters - this is the best that I can come up.
I would also ignore the pH in your display and just keep alk stable (unless you are dripping kalkwasser). Knowing will not do anything if you are just going to ignore it... so why even know. I have no idea what my pH is.
Temp is very important, so get a good unit. The hobby-grade controllers are good, but people trust them way too much since they are not enterprise grade and they do fail - I would at least use a heater with a thermostat for a second source of redundancy since Apex has been known to fail with outlets stuck "on." If you want to use titanium or a heater without a thermostat and only have a single point of redundancy, then get a Ranco since they are commercial grade and trusted for all sorts of VERY expensive and important things all over the world and nobody has ever seen one fail in the "on" position. Inkbird is a cheap and somewhat short lived solution that some people like to use - I would not trust this unit alone either. I use a Ranco and then have thermostats on the heaters - this is the best that I can come up.
As long as you set your bubble count in the right ballpark, a pH controller makes things significantly more reliable and if you use an apex instead of a dedicated reactor controller, it can tell you when there is an issue without having to babysit it every day. IME the only people who have issues with pH controllers are those who just crank up the bubble count, never calibrate the probe, and just expect it to work.
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I know that you truly believe this, but as you get more experience you will likely find out what so many other have... that using a co2 controller will only, at best, do what a well tuned system can do. At worst, using a pH controller can cause a lot of problems and inconsistent results. I have helped too many people that watched that dude's video where he tells you to throw the tuning instructions in the trash (he is out of the hobby BTS) that were fed up with their reactors and wanted to go back to 2/3 part - they are all happy now and truly know that consistency is.
If you want to use a pH probe to monitor, then cool, but I would not control anything with it.
If you want to use a pH probe to monitor, then cool, but I would not control anything with it.
I have an Apex and only use it to monitor pH in the tank and in the reactor. I use a Carbon Doser to add CO2 and a pinch valve to set my effluent drip rate. My system is super simple, but very effective. Chasing pH is one thing I have and many others have learned to move away from. You will find though that your pH will be very stable once you get you reactor running consistently.
It is on YouTube, but I will not link it... it has caused more trouble than good. The dude seems so confident and many people were misled by this, but he never had any idea of what he was talking about. The video has "too easy" in the title... which everybody should see as a red flag. 
I would only watch it if you want to see an video about what not to do.
I would only watch it if you want to see an video about what not to do.
It is on YouTube, but I will not link it... it has caused more trouble than good. The dude seems so confident and many people were misled by this, but he never had any idea of what he was talking about. The video has "too easy" in the title... which everybody should see as a red flag. I would only watch it if you want to see an video about what not to do.
I would only watch it if you want to see an video about what not to do.
I must of misread, I thought it was a video of the way you set up your calcium reactor that you stayed above. I’m going to have to pick your brain on the way you do sometime.
At best it's like a well tuned system that can auto adjust for small variations in regulator pressure, failsafe for power outages, notifications and failsafes for empty tank and flow loss, protection from melting media, and allows remote minor adjustments. You just have to do it right. If you tune by hand, give it an extra couple bubbles per minute, set the pH bounds where you tuned it to by hand, and calibrate the probe every month or two, it's very nice to have. I do agree that the method in the video you mention is garbage and shouldn't ever be attempted.
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Well thank you all for the advice it is truly appreciated. I think I found a Apex jr for sale that I'll probably pick up this weekend. In the same breath I'm half tempted to just keep dosing and sell the set up I just bought. If I do hook this bad boy up I'll probably need a hand as I've never run one. What are the thought on dosing by hand vs running a reactor. I'm trying to make life easier but I don't want to fire something up that can burn me down. Again thanks all.
I wouldn’t say a reactor is set it and forget it but once they are dialed in changes are small and only based upon changes in demand. I feel like I have mine dialed in pretty well and I check it once a week but mostly to make sure my CO2 is good.
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A Jr doesn't come with the necessary probe ports for it to work. You would need an apex classic or apex 2016, which have 2 probe inputs (one for tank, one for reactor) and an extra probe to be able to run both ports.
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So Juan do you think that's all I will need? I have a ph probe. this is exactly what I have:
Geo Reef CR618 Calcium Reactor (Older Black Base/Top Version), 5# CO2 Tank, Newer PH Probe & Free Aquatic Life C02 Regulator (May need work) - will include 3/4 container of ARM Course media as well.
I'm definitely going to need a hand hooking this thing up.
Geo Reef CR618 Calcium Reactor (Older Black Base/Top Version), 5# CO2 Tank, Newer PH Probe & Free Aquatic Life C02 Regulator (May need work) - will include 3/4 container of ARM Course media as well.
I'm definitely going to need a hand hooking this thing up.
You need a solenoid as well that is rated for continuous duty. You will want this regardless of whether you use a pH controller or not.
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pH probes are all standardized so you can mix and match those.
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