Ca Reactor Setup!! It's a Hoot!!

Cake_Boss

Blue Whale
M.A.S.C Club Member
#1
So I've been trying to figure this out for a few hours now and it just doesn't add up in my head.

Parts: AM KR1000 CaRx, AM SP 3000, Co2 Bottle, Co2 Reg, bubble counter.

Went to Melevsreef to try and get a better understanding of set up and found this


Ok Sweet, got a general understanding of where hoses go into and come out of.

The problem is that my bubble counter looks like this



Is it just me or is there a bottom missing? no place on the reactor does it have a space where this would go into/onto.

Here's the directions that came with the reactor, I can make them out but it seems like there are pieces missing. Well just one, #10 T-Piece with connection for 4/6mm tube




Next issue, the reactor included a dosing pump. Why do I need a dosing pump? Where do I put it?
 

spstimie

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#7
It is used to check the return from the reactor back to the system. You put it in the system where you want it to return so you can count the drips. Pretty sure it's in the manual, but everyone gets to the bubble counter and asks the same thing.
 

Cake_Boss

Blue Whale
M.A.S.C Club Member
#10
Oh my bad, there was a red cup that the effluent drips into. This is where the ph probe was. It was on his website

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edit: here is said pic of red cup
 
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spstimie

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#11
rockys_pride;90191 said:
I can't follow along with the manual, it's too many words in a row :wall:
Seriously man, sit down with a beer and read the manual! You are dealing with a piece of equipment that can make your hobby easier or nuke your aquarium. Probably worth the read.

rockys_pride;90195 said:
Oh my bad, there was a red cup that the effluent drips into. This is where the ph probe was. It was on his website
The KR1000 has a place to put an Aqua Medic high pressure electrode(threaded). Part number 15, but it only fits their electrode. If you don't have one, then yes, you would want to drip into a cup for a control electrode.
 

jonthefb

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#12
you dont need the red cup Jamie. Melev is using the red cup as a reservoir to place his pH probe. You dont need this because your probe is integrated into the reactor itself, one of the cool things about the aqua medic reactor. Shaun is correct the thing that you are photographing is a drip counter so that you can monitor the number of drops of water going into your system. Its actually one of the easier Ca reactors to setup and maintain. What are you having issues with?

#10 & #8 are where the water from your system enters your calcium reactor
#9 is where your CO2 enters the reactor (from a bubble counter preferably, which needs to be purchased/made separately)
#12, 13, and 14 are connected to the effluent line coming out of the reactor that will be dripping the Ca and Alk back into your system.
#15 and #16 are the threaded port to screw in a pH probe that would run to either a pH monitor or controller

Easy as pie!
 

djkms

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#13
When I first got my reactor from Lifereef I was pretty overwhelmed. I actually didnt set it up for a couple months. You do really need to sit down with a beer and soak in what the manual says. Once you get it up and running though you will have a good understanding of what each part does and everything will make sense to you. Although there are a lot of parts its actually pretty simplistic in design. If you want to bring it over some night or on the weekend Jamie let me know and I can help you. Dont get discouraged though, once you get it going you will wonder why you didnt do it sooner. Seriously, the only maintainance once its going is refilling the CO2 tank (which I still haven't done) and replacing the media (which I haven't done yet either).

Those who say it will wipe your tank don't have the proper safety measures setup with their system. Controller aside let me give you a couple pieces of advise;
Place your effluent (the water coming out of the reactor feeding your tank) as high up in the sump as possible so there is a lot of air contact time to dissipate the CO2. Also place the effluent as close to your skimmer inlet as well, this will also help get rid of the CO2. Some say to have a constant drip some say to have a slower drip. I am in the camp of a slow drip, I think mine is setup to 1-2 drips per second. The reason I do this is to further prevent a wipe. lets say every setting of my controller fails and my regulator gets stuck on. In the case were you have a nice constant drip a lot of CO2 will end up in your system along with tons of calcium and alkalinity. With a real slow drip, even if the regulator gets stuck on, you are dripping real slow into the system and have more time to react, especially if your away from your system.
 
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jonthefb

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#16
if you need help setting it up let me know.

The amount of effluent dripping into your tank is all relative to the demand. If your aquariums' demand for Ca and Alk is higher, you may not be able to get by with the slow drip method. It is all relative.
 

Cake_Boss

Blue Whale
M.A.S.C Club Member
#17
jonthefb;90857 said:
if you need help setting it up let me know.

The amount of effluent dripping into your tank is all relative to the demand. If your aquariums' demand for Ca and Alk is higher, you may not be able to get by with the slow drip method. It is all relative.
I may call you, can you send a text when you're in town next?

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scchase

Administrator
Staff member
M.A.S.C Club Member
M.A.S.C. B.O.D.
B.O.D. Member-at-Large
#18
Drip what is this drip you speak of I run a stream. LOL if I am out that way before you get it done I can help as well.
 
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120greefman

Guest
#19
Man that looks like it takes an engineer to set it up. I went with the good ole knob c cr which is as basic as they come and does the job you need. :) Got it for $90 too on RC with the eheim pump.
 
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