New house new tank... How much can my floor hold.

[Balz3352]

I know you're supposed to put tank perpendicular to support beams and next to load bearing wall. Well I have the load bearing wall part but the beams are parallel. How big do you think I could go without support. Or how would I support it and ballpark for guys who have done this.

Ps. I really want a 180.


Tank would go pretty much right above the vents.

16 in spread between beams. Concrete wall on left is outside wall of basement.

 

[Balz3352]

Btw I plan on basement sump

 

[Dr.DiSilicate]

Make sure the tank is over two of the beams. Having the sump in the basement will help,with the weight a bit.

 

[zombie]

Considering you will have point loads on the joist, I would at the very least add some bridging on the first two joices with 2×10s.

 

[Dr.DiSilicate]

Considering you will have point loads on the joice, I would at the very least add some bridging on the first two joices with 2×10s.

Plus 1. And a 4x4 post if you can. You'd need to cut the flooring probably as basement floors are like 2" most of the time. Might be worth the piece of mind.

 

[samindenver]

You'd probably be fine with a 180 , but to be safe, I'd put in a jack post under the outer floor joist. You can get one from Lowes for less than 50 bucks.

 

[Walter White]

You'd probably be fine with a 180 , but to be safe, I'd put in a jack post under the outer floor joist. You can get one from Lowes for less than 50 bucks.

+1 and the jack post can be adjusted if you get any sag.

 

[FinsUp]

OK - here's what you do: cut out the floor to match your tank's footprint, precisely where the tank is going to go, so you can look through it and see your basement floor. Build a plywood frame, lace it with plenty of rebar, inset a large piece of PVC pipe to run your plumbing and electrical from the basement to the tank, and pour solid concrete into it to form a tank pedestal. Then attach the joists to the new concrete pedestal. Best way to guarantee the tank won't come crashing through.

 

[Dr.DiSilicate]

OK - here's what you do: cut out the floor to match your tank's footprint, precisely where the tank is going to go, so you can look through it and see your basement floor. Build a plywood frame, lace it with plenty of rebar, inset a large piece of PVC pipe to run your plumbing and electrical from the basement to the tank, and pour solid concrete into it to form a tank pedestal. Then attach the joists to the new concrete pedestal. Best way to guarantee the tank won't come crashing through.

You pain in the ***.

 

[FinsUp]

:rofl: :dance: :rofl:

 

[Balz3352]

Hmm thanks guys. I like the post idea except there's a window right where the center of the tank will be. Hmm. Maybe I'll consult a contractor see how much hidden support would be.

 

[zombie]

Heck if you do bridging, you can do it yourself for like 20 bucks (or a couple hundred max from a contractor). Cut 8 lengths that will fit snug perpinidicular to the joist at 18 in spacing, on both the second and third joist. Then attach them with heavy duty nails. A post is nice, but not at all necessary for a 180. 300 gallon, thats a whole different ballpark

 

[Balz3352]

So just to make sure I get what you're saying basically this below? With 2x10s?

 

[zombie]

Exactly, right underneath where the tank will sit.

 

[zombie]

You can do more rows and columns as well if you want to play it real safe as that will distribute the weight over a larger area than the tank footprint.