40gal Rimless Breeder

Wicked Color

Tiger Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#42
Looks very nice!!, I have a free frag or two waiting to be the first inhabitants, (tester coral)
 

Dr.DiSilicate

Great White Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
ex-officio
#43
Looking good! When are you adding coral or fish. You could seed the tank with a small rock from your other tank to get the bacteria culture going if that is what you are waiting for. Are you going to the meeting on Sunday?
 

crustytheclown

Bat Fish
M.A.S.C Club Member
#45
michael.lemke;67462 said:
Looking good! When are you adding coral or fish. You could seed the tank with a small rock from your other tank to get the bacteria culture going if that is what you are waiting for. Are you going to the meeting on Sunday?
Im waiting on a good 300watt heater that should arrive tomorrow or the next day. The water is already cycling from a chuck of frozen mysis shrimp i through in there, but its going slowly since there is no heater in there.
 

dv3

Beluga
M.A.S.C Club Member
#46
crustytheclown;67581 said:
Im waiting on a good 300watt heater that should arrive tomorrow or the next day. The water is already cycling from a chuck of frozen mysis shrimp i through in there, but its going slowly since there is no heater in there.
that a pretty big heater for that tank ...do you have a controller?
 

crustytheclown

Bat Fish
M.A.S.C Club Member
#47
yeah i got a ViaAqua Titanium Tube Heater w/ Remote Thermostat. I also will be running a ReefKeeper Elite. I thought it was 5watts a gallon for heaters?
 

dv3

Beluga
M.A.S.C Club Member
#48
not sure what the rule is ...i know that's enough to fry your tank if it fails ...but with a controller should be good
 

crustytheclown

Bat Fish
M.A.S.C Club Member
#50
so i was thinking about what to do with my other two biocubes once i get this 40gal cycled? Some peeps suggested plumbing the 29gal into this new setup and having a Display Fuge. At first it sounded like a def plan, but the more i thought about it, the more i am reconsidering?
If i would do this i would feed the 29 via gravity by way of the air and water overflow from the Bean Animal Overflow on the 40gal breeder. Than it would overflow via an overflow box into the sump. This sounds like it would be a really cool addition to this current setup but i am unsure because of a couple reasons. I had custom work done on this tank to install this "FAIL PROOF" overflow system. If i plumb in this biocube the system will definitely not be "FAIL PROOF" and prolly not as silent as it is right now, (with the addition of another overflow, etc.) I have room in my sump to grow cheato and maybe some other macro?
Any advice?
 

crustytheclown

Bat Fish
M.A.S.C Club Member
#52
i was thinking that but im afraid i wont get a fair price for them, considering all the money i put into them for the last year or so?
 

crustytheclown

Bat Fish
M.A.S.C Club Member
#54
ok :) my new tank is almost done cycling!!! So i eventually want to make this an SPS tank. Now with that in mind up front, what types of corals, fish, and inverts should i stay away from? I know people normally add easy corals in the beginning to there tanks, but some of these i have read can overtake the tank. Ive also read that some leathers and mushrooms can release toxins into the water that can be bad for SPS. Also i know that hermits kill snails. So should i just go with snails or just hermits?
These are the corals i have in my other tanks that i would eventually like to transfer/frag to this tank. (If they arent a threat to SPS)
Green Star Polyps on a rock in the sand.
Yellow Polyps on a rock in the sand.
Florida Ricordea Mushrooms on a rock in the sand.
Hammer Coral
Torch Coral
Zoanthids
Palythoas
Pagoda Cup Coral
Toadstool Leather
Also, how long should i let the tank establish itself before introducing some easy SPS?
 

SAZAMA

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#55
when parameters are good, start off with a hardy moniti or acro and see what happens. i'll crack ya a piece.
 

crustytheclown

Bat Fish
M.A.S.C Club Member
#57
im def interested mike. I just tested my water today and i got 0 AMM 0 Nitrite and 5-10 Nitrate :) Now i can finally get this big ball of cheato into the sump and out of the spare 29gal tank that i had laying around. I have been running a cheap light, a heater and a koralia for over two months trying to keep it alive! and i prevailed! Hurray! Also what type of light cycle should i start out with? I havent been running the lights at all while the tank has been cycling! I havent had any diatoms or algae blooms yet? I know as soon as i start running the lights im bound to get some of this, so any recommendations>?
 

jonthefb

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#58
crustytheclown;71932 said:
Green Star Polyps on a rock in the sand.
Yellow Polyps on a rock in the sand.
Florida Ricordea Mushrooms on a rock in the sand.
Hammer Coral
Torch Coral
Zoanthids
Palythoas?
Make sure you give all of these guys, lots of room, and I would suggest keeping the palys/zoas/star polyps/ricordeas isolated to rocks that are on the sand that cant migrate to rocks that you will eventually glue your sps frags to.
 

crustytheclown

Bat Fish
M.A.S.C Club Member
#59
word. I would like to put the torch and hammer coral in this tank also but im wondering if its a good idea? My rockwork is very minimalistic for this tank. Eventually i want it to be mostly sps, but really want some motion in there too. So i was thinking of placing them on the island that i have (refer to pic)

I was thinking of glueing the hammer to one of the branches on the island and the torch on the other branch on the island.
Where would you place these corals in this tank? I was planning on placing the VorTech MP10 on the right wall of the tank so it would blow up the bigger rock structure and into the overflow. Im not sure if the corals will look ok up on the arms of the island or not? I was wanting a tree effect? I might have to frag the hammer as it has alot of heads and might be/look to big atop the rock island.
Any ideas on other coral placement in this tank if the MP10 is blowing from the right side up to the overflow on the other side. I also have my return coming in and blowing down from the back corner of the overflow(left side).
 

crustytheclown

Bat Fish
M.A.S.C Club Member
#60
so i finally set up my sump. got my skimmer running, and my fuge setup/ with light. I also got my ato float switch controls installed but not hooked up to my ReefKeeper yet. I am going to attempt this tomorrow:) It is suggested to use marine type butt splices to connect the bare wires together from the switches to the inputs that hook into the SL1 module. Does anyone know where to get these or how to hook up to bare wires? Also i got two switches for my sump. One for a back up if the first one fails. How should i position the switches? I think the switches go on when they are "closed" or against the threaded ends that have the wire coming out of it. So if this is the case, the first and major switch should be upside down (so to speak) so that when the water drops in the sump the switch "closes" and completes the circut. Than floats again and "opens" when the water is high enough. And than the back up switch should be positioned so that the float switch "floats" up and "closes" to turn the pump completely off if the water level ever gets that high.
Do i have this correct?
I am growing cheato in the first chamber of my sump, where the overflow comes in.... because my skimmer is too big to go into any chamber but the center. I think this will function properly. I had to install a piece of egg crate toward the bottom of the first chamber and lay some filter pad on top of it to keep the cheato from the skimmer and return pump. The pad is also keeping any air bubbles from passing though :)



 
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