Hello MASC. I am planning my build and need a questions answered since i have reached the plumbing phase. I have a 180 DT that i will be draining to my sump/refugium in the basement. The overflow drains are 2-1" and i would like to run one pipe for drain and one pipe for return. Since i dont know flow equations or fluid dynamics. Will a 1.5" pvc pipe to the basement be able to hold or allow the flow from the 2-1" without any restrictions? Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Drains/water flow V=v2kdkfhx3w3455 / Pie
- Thread starter deboy69
- Start date
Yes, you should be fine. In fact that's my exact setup. I combine the two 1" pipes into a 1.5" pipe in the stand, then run the 1.5" pipe down to the basement. For my return line, I run a 1.5" pipe from the basement into the stand, then split it off into two 3/4" pipes to go to the returns in each overflow.
Theoretically speaking, one 1.5" pipe has slightly more capacity than two 1" pipes combined, all other parameters being equal. Make sure to keep a negative slope on the return line and to allow air to enter the return at some point to avoid a vacuum.
Theoretically speaking, one 1.5" pipe has slightly more capacity than two 1" pipes combined, all other parameters being equal. Make sure to keep a negative slope on the return line and to allow air to enter the return at some point to avoid a vacuum.
1 inch pvc is around 960 gph gravity
1.5 in is around 2100 gph
You shoud be fine.
Keep in mind 90s and Ts restrict some flow
Use 45s and Ys wherever possible.
Also, your overflow will never drain more than your return pumps up to the tank. so if your pumping 1500 gph you would never have an issue with the returns.
1.5 in is around 2100 gph
You shoud be fine.
Keep in mind 90s and Ts restrict some flow
Use 45s and Ys wherever possible.
Also, your overflow will never drain more than your return pumps up to the tank. so if your pumping 1500 gph you would never have an issue with the returns.
I would actually stay away from the check valve and drill a small hole in your return line just above water level to allow air back in to break siphon. Check valves are bad news. If you ever look at the inside of your return line over a period of time it builds up with slime and other deposits that will make the check valve fail.
Yea but that's why you put unions on both sides so its easily removed. It's not about breaking the siphon its about having water in 20ft or more of piping and when you turn that return pump off all the water drains to your sump. That's a ton of water. Plus all that air gets pumped into your display when you turn the pump back on.
its not about the size of the check valve, its about the mechanical portion of it. Calcium and other stuff will build up on the parts and wont allow it to fully close. If your return line is several inches below the surface of your DT and you have no air relief, you will drain several gallons down to your sump. If your sump cant handle the volume of water that drains down from your return, you will surely flood.
in time everything fails eventualy, I have a back flow preventor on my return, it has unions on both sends built in its also clear so you can see right in it and check for build up on the flapper and with so much presure running thru it it stays very clean no way much of anything has a chance to build up. My sump can handle the water that would drop in anyways if it did stay open but I have a little run around my sump before the pump so the bfp helps to restart the pump after I turn it off and back on.
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sent from my HTC evo 4G
I'd go with not having a check valve. That's just one more piece of equipment that can fail and from what I've read, they quite often do. I think they're an unnecessary expense.
I think a more fail safe method is to make sure your sump is large enough and has enough free board to contain the back flow water in the case of a power failure. Leave your returns in the dt at the water surface so they won't siphon much water when the power goes off. If you're using a horse trough sump, which many people do with a basement sump, you shouldn't have any problem being able to contain the siphon water in a power failure.
I think a more fail safe method is to make sure your sump is large enough and has enough free board to contain the back flow water in the case of a power failure. Leave your returns in the dt at the water surface so they won't siphon much water when the power goes off. If you're using a horse trough sump, which many people do with a basement sump, you shouldn't have any problem being able to contain the siphon water in a power failure.
If I were you, I would keep both overflow drains. I've dumped so many gallons of water on my carpet that I don't take chances any more, and would want the redundancy as more protection. You could find a way to plumb the return over the back if you don't have another hole. Just another opinion to throw out there...