Gfo in macro display tank?

crustytheclown

Bat Fish
M.A.S.C Club Member
#1
I have a macro display tank in a 29 gal biocube. I have been having a little gha issue. Should I use some gfo? Or should I try some emeralds? All I have in it currently is a cleaner shrimp and a green mandarin. I have a lighted refugium in the back middle chamber where I keep cheato.
Any suggestions?
 
#2
If you try emeralds, and you probably already know this, make sure you get little ones. I didn't pay attention as the LFS loaded up my bag last time, and got some big guys - one I had to remove the same night as he stalked and nearly ate my maroon male. He was rehomed to my LFS.

Anyway, I have had no hair algae where the emeralds can reach - I used to have it on the powerheads but the tang I used to have fixed that. Now that he's gone, I'm wondering if it will come back. I don't use RODI, so I do get short blooms of algae just about every time I do a big water change until my system uses up the phosphorus (i think that's what I've read encourages its growth?). I have also had a lot of luck with red leg hermit crabs and hair algae.
 

coloagro

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#3
Good_GReef;149365 said:
If you try emeralds, and you probably already know this, make sure you get little ones. I didn't pay attention as the LFS loaded up my bag last time, and got some big guys - one I had to remove the same night as he stalked and nearly ate my maroon male. He was rehomed to my LFS.

Anyway, I have had no hair algae where the emeralds can reach - I used to have it on the powerheads but the tang I used to have fixed that. Now that he's gone, I'm wondering if it will come back. I don't use RODI, so I do get short blooms of algae just about every time I do a big water change until my system uses up the phosphorus (i think that's what I've read encourages its growth?). I have also had a lot of luck with red leg hermit crabs and hair algae.
+1 Emeralds are eating machines but make sure their small and NOT hungry otherwise they may turn on you. You'll know if their hungry:
A- your out of algae for them eat
B- he'll become very active in his search food....but dont let it get to....
C - He'll turn on your polyps for food :)

Their easy to catch imao so just remove him once your GHA is gone. Get some dwarf Ceriths...they mow down all the algae in my tank and I'm now without an Emerald due to "C" because he was too effective at clearing algae thus hungry so he starting getting into my Purple Hammer, LPS Plate and Torch....BUT this is a rare trait!!!
Despite all this I vote getting an Emerald and Dwarf Ceriths/Snails for long term algae control.
 

djkms

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#5
crustytheclown;150290 said:
Sweet. Thanks for the info. How often should I do water changes in a macro algae display tank? Any ideas?
I would say it all depends on your bioload. IMO its very important to test often if you plan on keeping macros and corals in the same system. You really need to have good balance with your nutrient control. You want to have enough nutrients available in the water column to feed your macros (especially so they don't go sexual) but not to much to inhibit coral growth.

I would not run GFO constantly as this will not allow much if any phosphate in your water column, which is needed by your macros. I just recently started running GFO again in my macro tank but I am only using it to bring my phosphates back down a bit. Before turning on the reactor my PO4 read .06. Once it hits 0 I take the reactor back offline. I am hoping I can keep it below .02 so my SPS can start coloring back up again. If it creeps past that I will put the GFO back online. I tried keeping my system at
 
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