how to proceed with older fish

#1
Unexpectedly, this weekend someone my spouse knows asked her if I'd be interested in their fish as they are moving pretty soon. With the exception of the engineer goby, almost every fish was on my wish list.

I went to the home to pick up the fish with buckets in hand, and from the list that I was provided before I showed up, it had to be a pretty large tank.
The list of livestock is: 3 x large bengai cardinals, 4 x large blue/green chromis, 1 yellow watchman goby (who is silver for some reason), 1 x massive 4 inch clown fish, 1 x 5 inch blue hippo tang, 1 x engineer goby (around 13" in length). All of these fish were in a tank no larger than 30 gallons, probably less.

Since I'm in the process of moving between my 55 and a 180, my 55 was empty besides the water and sand. It had never stopped filtering the water, so I added every fish I picked up and all the live rock and corals into the 55.

All fish looked thrilled to get into a larger tank, especially the tang and engineer. I guessed some of the ich issues i'd heard that the tang had formerly had was from stress of being in a smaller tank. The tang still has some ich on its rear (3) are visible.

My question is, how do I transition to putting any of them into the 180? If I know some of the fish might be sick, but the others look really healthy, how can I move forward? I will say I do have an additional 20G QT set up, but I was hoping I wasnt going to have to use it.

After I turned off the lights, I can see quite a population of bristle worms that I have never had in my tanks. I've read that they can be quite beneficial as a CUC, but I really dont want them at this stage. I was going to use a chisel and break off the soft corals from the live rock they are attached to (along with a minimal amount of rock), dip them in something like Coral RX and add to the 180. Is this reasonable?

Thanks for any advice
 

Fitz19d

Bat Fish
M.A.S.C Club Member
#2
If one has it, they all have it.

I would say treat for a month in CP but I've heard I think blue tangs don't tolerate it. Ideally if you could get 2-3 30g+ tanks, you could try doing tank transfer method which would for sure be rid of ick in 2 weeks. But very difficult because you have so many fish and because of changing tanks not going to have much in the way of a bacterial filter.....

All that sand/rock is "contaminated too" unless it's fallow for 2 months+ (like 72 days)

Essentially. What i would do is. rock/sand into 180g but it has to remain fishless 72 days. Before you do that, a big block of marine pure or a bunch of clean sponges in the tank and allowed to get seeded and cycled for your bacterial filter would be ideal.


You can then either do CP which is what I'm liking now but the blue tang held in a seperate tank (not the fallow 180). Or after 180 fallow for 2 months, you can take one or two of the fish from the 55g and do tank transfer method on them before dumping in the display and do them in batches since controlling ammonia in small tanks with a bunch of medium fish would be a big challenge. (I had probably a comparable amount of fish/biomass in a 50g and ammonia was getting too high even with 80% water changes every 14-15 hours.)




Kinda in same boat I was. You really are best off if you can have a tank established first, then quarantine procedures established and the means to properly treat. (Again I like cp seems to be easier and safer except for fairy wrasses and *maybe* blue tangs). TTM is full proof for ick but is challenging just due to space and equipment.
 

Fitz19d

Bat Fish
M.A.S.C Club Member
#4
Spaced that. Only possible issue is thought the bacterial filter suffers or there was some other challenge with it? It's not 100% like ttm but given his situation probably way safer.
 
#5
Thank you for the replies. To add to this mess, I noticed a huge population of Aiptasia while closely observing the 55 in the dark last night. It is even growing in the middle of some xenia! I thought they were supposed to fight. Still looking for viable options...
 

Fitz19d

Bat Fish
M.A.S.C Club Member
#6
Where are you located? Have a bunch of coral or just xenia and aiptasia? Can use aiptasia x. I have a filefish that *might* eat aiptasia. Can also if you get that sponge filter etc going (or like I said the big blocks of marine pure I'm finding great for adding a lot of biofilter fairly quick). Can just take the rock out and scrape/acid wash it and start clean.
 
#7
If your "location" set in your tag is correct Fitz, we live in opposite directions unfortunately (I'm in Monument). I'll PM you to talk about some of your other ideas though :)
 
#8
Fitz19d;661813 said:
Where are you located? Have a bunch of coral or just xenia and aiptasia? Can use aiptasia x. I have a filefish that *might* eat aiptasia. Can also if you get that sponge filter etc going (or like I said the big blocks of marine pure I'm finding great for adding a lot of biofilter fairly quick). Can just take the rock out and scrape/acid wash it and start clean.
I have used Aptasia X exclusively for a few years every 4 months or so. I let them get just big enough so that all you have to do is turn your flow off, fill the syringe with it and go hunting. Just shove it right into it's mouth. Larger ones will attempt to retract in a quick motion and expel it but just ride it out and as they retreat, cover them with the stuff. It is from my experience harmless(don't let it get into your Zoa's but other than that)
Leave flow off for 20 minutes or so and make sure the Aptasia you attacked is out of action, then just turn the flow back on and it'll blow the residual into you column and out of your DT. Walla.

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