phosphate levels always high

#1
my phosphate levels always been high I can never can get it below .08 with a red sea tests. I am using dual chamber GFO reactor and using GRO PRO a lot of water changes and I can not get my phosphate down. yes I do have a lot of fish and big fish and of course I have to feed them a lot to keep all the tangs happy but I always wondered why my phosphate levels are high. today I did check my phosphate level from the RO/DI system and I have .08 coming out of it. no wonder why I cant win that battle. Commerce City water is the worst water out there. now I am trying new stuff and hope its going to work.
 

Fourthwind

Anthias
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#2
I would check it right out of the filter and not out of your holding tank. Some containers leach phosphate. I would also check with a different tester just in case. seems suspicious you got the same reading. would not suspect any phosphate out of a properly working RODI. Trust me when I say Thornton's water is no better. My input TDS is between 450 and 600 for most of the year.
 
#3
the sample water that I took it came from the RO/DI unit it self and not from the water storage container. I performed the test with my red sea test and it was .08. stone aquatic used the red sea test and same numbers. then when I got home I checked it with hanna checker and it was .09. so ya I know now why my phosphate level is high
 

TheRealChrisBrown

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#4
I've had good luck with RowaPhos, I run it in the GFO section of my BRS dual reactor. I use 1 gram/gal when I swap it out. Then I run regular carbon after it. Might be worth a try if you want to try a new product on it.
 

SynDen

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#6
Sounds more like you should add another DI stage to your RODI filter. If phosphates are getting through your unit then the Di is not adequate or isnt doing its job at all, as this is the stage that removes phosphates. So I'd replace the current Di resin and consider adding another Di canister to ensure you get maximum Di effectiveness throughout the lifecycle of the resin.
 

crisc

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#7
SynDen;n661297 said:
Sounds more like you should add another DI stage to your RODI filter. If phosphates are getting through your unit then the Di is not adequate or isnt doing its job at all, as this is the stage that removes phosphates. So I'd replace the current Di resin and consider adding another Di canister to ensure you get maximum Di effectiveness throughout the lifecycle of the resin.
Ditto, and to add that not all DI resins are the same. They have different grades of DI and some of the cheaper ones don't have a very long shelf life even if they are sealed and are damp. A good quality DI should fix the PO4 problem from the RO. Also I can't remember if your garage gets sunlight through a window Jake? UV light from sunlight/fuge light will cause the DI resin to degrade as well so try wrapping the DI housing so no UV light can hit it and it might last longer if that is the case.

As far as the PO4 in the tank, have you tried NOPOX doing (vodka/vinegar) instead of the biopellets?
 

ReefCheif

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#8
Yup, inwas having the same issue. Adding a second DI chamber cleared that up, ive also noticed Im not changing my DI so often now that Im running 2 DI chambers.
 

aquarius

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#9
With your numbers coming out do high off of your ro unit I would check tad off the ro membrane before the di, it sounds like you may have a bad ro membrane. Depending on your membranes rejection level you shouldn't have more than 2-3 tad after your ro and di should eliminate the last bit with no problem. A good membrane will not let enough stuff through to the point that your di resin is only lasting for 160 gallons
 
#11
SynDen;n661297 said:
Sounds more like you should add another DI stage to your RODI filter. If phosphates are getting through your unit then the Di is not adequate or isnt doing its job at all, as this is the stage that removes phosphates. So I'd replace the current Di resin and consider adding another Di canister to ensure you get maximum Di effectiveness throughout the lifecycle of the resin.
I have 2 DI canisters and I can get only 150 gallon of RO water and then the DI is brown. I am thinking to buy 2 big DI canisters the 4.5' by 20' . 2 of them and I hope that's going to solve the issue.
 
#12
crisc;n661300 said:
Ditto, and to add that not all DI resins are the same. They have different grades of DI and some of the cheaper ones don't have a very long shelf life even if they are sealed and are damp. A good quality DI should fix the PO4 problem from the RO. Also I can't remember if your garage gets sunlight through a window Jake? UV light from sunlight/fuge light will cause the DI resin to degrade as well so try wrapping the DI housing so no UV light can hit it and it might last longer if that is the case.

As far as the PO4 in the tank, have you tried NOPOX doing (vodka/vinegar) instead of the biopellets?
there is window in the garage but the blinds are always closed so the sun doe not hit it at all. I do use NOPOX all the time but I want to find the root of the issue so in the long run it will not cost me too much.
 
#13
aquarius;n661316 said:
With your numbers coming out do high off of your ro unit I would check tad off the ro membrane before the di, it sounds like you may have a bad ro membrane. Depending on your membranes rejection level you shouldn't have more than 2-3 tad after your ro and di should eliminate the last bit with no problem. A good membrane will not let enough stuff through to the point that your di resin is only lasting for 160 gallons
the RO memberance is good. I do flush them and they are not that old.
 

jda123

Dolphin
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#14
How does your test kit test bottled water? Are you sure that your .08 is not lower than that? Red Sea test kit is not known for being super awesome. See if you can borrow a hannah ultra low kit.

You will go though DI VERY quickly using it for phosphate... like I would be shocked it it lasted 100 gallons.

FWIW - enough GFO should be able to get the water down to near-zero while the GFO is not exhausted. I would expect it to bounce back up after you take the GFO off or once it is used up, but it should test near zero while the GFO is fresh if you have enough on the tank.
 
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