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RKL+ALC+Kessil a360w+SPS

Discussion in 'Digital Aquatics' started by Sour137, Jul 10, 2017.

  1. Sour137

    Sour137 Copepod

    So i'm looking for people who use Kessil a360w with the Reefkeeper lite and the advanced light controller who also grow sps. Specifically what i'm looking for is what settings do you use to achieve healthy sps growth without bleaching or browning. My birdsnest coral that I got about a month and a half ago bleached out a bit with ideal water parameters (minus the ph which sits at 8.1). Today I noticed a little bit of green coming back after I have dialed the intensity down. Right now i'm sitting at 95 on dim A and 86 on dim B, and I will probably dial it down a bit more before I am satisfied, so I'm curious what other people use to achieve satisfactory sps conditions.
     
  2. Sour137

    Sour137 Copepod

    Additionally I have 2 a360w over a 48" spaced evenly apart, and they sit about 4 inches off the surface of the water with a glass screen top and sporadic water droplets on the bottom surface of the glass top. The birdsnest sits slightly to the center of the tank and almost directly under one of the lights. I don't have a PAR meter so I can't tell you those metrics.
     
  3. zombie

    zombie Barracuda M.A.S.C Club Member

    What is the approximate distance between the kessil and your sps at the highest and lowest points in the tank?

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.
     
  4. Sour137

    Sour137 Copepod

    14.5" to 16.5" It's little right now
     
  5. zombie

    zombie Barracuda M.A.S.C Club Member

    That distance away even 100% shouldn't bleach it. Most kessils run 350-450 about 6" from the fixture so I would expect it to be 200-350 at that distance. Shouldn't be overkill at all for that sps. You sure it's not bleaching from something else like redbugs, poor nutrients, etc?

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.
     
  6. Dr.DiSilicate

    Dr.DiSilicate Kraken M.A.S.C Club Member

    What are "ideal parameters "? I think we need more info. Alkalinity calcium for starters. How old is the set up? That's where I'd start looking first.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
  7. Sour137

    Sour137 Copepod

    Last week's water tests; alkalinity 3.25, nitrite 0, nitrate 0, ammonia 0, salinity 1.025, calcium 435, magnesium 1400, phosphate 0, and ph is at 8.1. From every resource I have looked at would tell me that those are ideal, correct me if i'm wrong.
     
  8. zombie

    zombie Barracuda M.A.S.C Club Member

    Is 3.25 dKH a typo? If it's not, that's your problem. That should be around 9 or 10 with calcium at 435.

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.
     
  9. Sour137

    Sour137 Copepod

    Alkalinity, dKH is a measure of alkalinity. dKH is 9.1
     
  10. zombie

    zombie Barracuda M.A.S.C Club Member

    Ok. You meant 3.25 meq/L. That's reasonable.

    You could try backing the spectrum to be more blue and/or back off the intensity and see if things improve. I would definitely take a very close look to see if you have any redbugs or nudis that made it on the sps.

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.
     
  11. Sour137

    Sour137 Copepod

    So that is the birdsnest. I dunked it in a coral dip when I got it just for safety. Based on what I have seen online I do not believe there are any red bugs, and i'm not entirely sure what to look for with nudibranchs. At the LFS they had it under Kessils and it was quite green.
     
  12. zombie

    zombie Barracuda M.A.S.C Club Member

    That's not bleaching. That's rapid tissue necrosis.

    Do you have any other stinging corals nearby? Recently add something that could have changed your bacteria population? Did you drip acclimate before the dip? How long did you dip?

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.
     
  13. Sour137

    Sour137 Copepod

    Damn. No, the only other corals I have are two green star polyps, and they are a ways away. I have added a firefish, 3 anthias, and the GSP since I got the birdsnest, other than that I have not done anything out of the ordinary. When I dipped the coral I followed the instructions on the bottle, 15 minutes and repeat after one week. I had read that drip acclimation was unnecessary. Therefore I did not. The LFS has similar water temperatures, and salinity. I did float the bag because I always do that with everything I get. Should I have drip acclimated? Is there anything I can do for it, or should I cut it out? One branch still has some green to it, can I save it?
     
  14. Dr.DiSilicate

    Dr.DiSilicate Kraken M.A.S.C Club Member

    I'll cut ya another if you want to try again?!? RTN is weird. You never really know what the problem was.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  15. neil82

    neil82 Prawn M.A.S.C Club Member

    From my experience, these coral are pretty sensitive to changes in alk. I wonder what the levels were at the LFS. Sorry the colony is struggling, always a bummer. Been there.
     
  16. zombie

    zombie Barracuda M.A.S.C Club Member

    With LPS I never bother with a drip or slow change, but I do with SPS as I did have some RTN if the source had different alk. Rather than take the time to test, I always drip acclimate (technically I do it in surges removing 25% and dumping that then filling back to top with tank water while floating) every 10 minutes for an hour or two. I follow that with a 5 minute dip of just coral rx for SPS. For LPS, I do 15 minutes and I also do a 1:5 rodi to hydrogen peroxide dip too for 5 minutes.

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.
     
  17. DJBM3

    DJBM3 Amphipod

    If you loose it and want to try it again let me know... I have several frags from mine that I had to trim down.
     
  18. Sour137

    Sour137 Copepod

    I might take up Dr.DiDilicate on the offer since he is closer, DJBM3. Is there anything I can do to save the one branch that is still healthy or is it a colony wide disaster like Roanoke? Additionally the dying frag is superglued in, what is the best way to remove it?
     
  19. zombie

    zombie Barracuda M.A.S.C Club Member

    I've had luck cutting off the dead tissue with a bone cutter to prevent the spread to the rest of the colony in the past.

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.
     
  20. Sour137

    Sour137 Copepod

    I went ahead and removed it from the tank. I tested the water this morning since I do a water change on thursdays and I noticed that ammonia had gone up to 0.1 ppm. The only part that looked healthy still was only a centimeter long. I could not justify saving it.
     

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