plumbing for sump
- Thread starter coralman
- Start date
I'm no plumber...so please those with more experience chime in. I had to learn tons of plumbing to do my build. I asked tons of questions along the way. My understanding is only use ABS for drains. It's not made for pressure, which would include your return lines. For example, in most homes, the ABS (large black plumbing) are drain pipes. Usually some sort of PVC or copper are used for water (pressurized) lines. fwiw
Nothing to it, I'm no plumber but, I've done a few. PVC, pvc cement, and some purple primer should do you just fine. I also got one of those fancy cutters, not necessary, but it sure makes your life easier. Measure twice,this has always been one of my faults. 45 degree elbows will help reduce head pressure. Put a small hole just below the water level in your DT to act as an anti-siphon, I feel this is important so that you don't get a ton of back flow into your sump if you ever have a power failure.
Another option, if you don't feel like doing the work (or spending the cash for all the fittings) for hard piping, do soft piping. By this I mean, attach hose barbs to everything and use clear tubing to connect everything. You'll need clamps, I use cheap metal ones for the ones out of the water and these for the ones in the water (zip ties won't cut it here). They sell the plastic ones at ACE in the section with all the nuts and bolts.
What did you decide on for an overflow?
Another option, if you don't feel like doing the work (or spending the cash for all the fittings) for hard piping, do soft piping. By this I mean, attach hose barbs to everything and use clear tubing to connect everything. You'll need clamps, I use cheap metal ones for the ones out of the water and these for the ones in the water (zip ties won't cut it here). They sell the plastic ones at ACE in the section with all the nuts and bolts.
What did you decide on for an overflow?
P
VC is what you want unless it’s for your return, the reasonbeing is the chemicals they are treated with, ABS will dispense those chemicalsunder pressure, thus is why it is used for sewer installations. The chemical isanti-acidic meaning it won’t break down overtime when it is subjected to thingslike sewage which can be very acidic. Another upside to PVC is that it can be assembledwith low-V glue meaning it is less likely to add unwanted containments to thewater. keep in mind whenever you assemble any piping for a tank to put the glueon the male end only, when the pieces are fit together the glue will not bepresent on the interior of the fittings where water will be actively presentagainst it, this will again reduce how much the glue comes in contact with thewater and reduce how much impact it has on the system. ALWAYS make sure you leteverything cure for 24hours so you do not admit any of those toxins into thewater as you are assembling them (If you are able). One mistake I have made inthe past is not putting in enough quick couplings, I would highly suggest quickcoupling for everything so that if you have a pump go out or if you have a nozzleor valve fail you can simply remove it without cutting pipe and replace itwithout gluing in new pipe. For 1" quick couplings at HD I think theycharge like 2.00, well worth it when something goes wrong which in this hobbyis almost a certainty in my opinion. That’s just what I think, I’m not alicensed Plummer but I am a licensed contractor who has to deal with this crapevery day. GOOD LUCK!!!!
VC is what you want unless it’s for your return, the reasonbeing is the chemicals they are treated with, ABS will dispense those chemicalsunder pressure, thus is why it is used for sewer installations. The chemical isanti-acidic meaning it won’t break down overtime when it is subjected to thingslike sewage which can be very acidic. Another upside to PVC is that it can be assembledwith low-V glue meaning it is less likely to add unwanted containments to thewater. keep in mind whenever you assemble any piping for a tank to put the glueon the male end only, when the pieces are fit together the glue will not bepresent on the interior of the fittings where water will be actively presentagainst it, this will again reduce how much the glue comes in contact with thewater and reduce how much impact it has on the system. ALWAYS make sure you leteverything cure for 24hours so you do not admit any of those toxins into thewater as you are assembling them (If you are able). One mistake I have made inthe past is not putting in enough quick couplings, I would highly suggest quickcoupling for everything so that if you have a pump go out or if you have a nozzleor valve fail you can simply remove it without cutting pipe and replace itwithout gluing in new pipe. For 1" quick couplings at HD I think theycharge like 2.00, well worth it when something goes wrong which in this hobbyis almost a certainty in my opinion. That’s just what I think, I’m not alicensed Plummer but I am a licensed contractor who has to deal with this crapevery day. GOOD LUCK!!!!