So I have a tank with almost all zoanthids. Recently my colonies started to thin out but it almost seems like the individual zooanthids are are just moving away from each other and splitting up. Does this sound like something they do ? What can i do to stop teh thinning as it does seem that i am losing some.
Zoa Help
- Thread starter Tripple T
- Start date
First step is to test up your water parameters and post them so we have an idea what we're dealing with.
If possible, test everything.
Specific Gravity
Temp (Check several times through out the day and track the results)
PH (Check several times through out the day and track the results)
Ammonia
Nitrite
Nitrate
Phosphate
Alkalinity
Calcium
Magnesium (would be nice, but may not be needed)
Often Nitrates and Phosphates can cause corals to recede or shrink up.
Also make sure light bulbs aren't due for changing.
If possible, test everything.
Specific Gravity
Temp (Check several times through out the day and track the results)
PH (Check several times through out the day and track the results)
Ammonia
Nitrite
Nitrate
Phosphate
Alkalinity
Calcium
Magnesium (would be nice, but may not be needed)
Often Nitrates and Phosphates can cause corals to recede or shrink up.
Also make sure light bulbs aren't due for changing.
i hate these kind of posts that can seem belittling to a knowledgeable reefer but since you posted i'll take a stab
you can feed the zoas something like coral frenzy or reef chili but not sure its nessecary
could your salinity be higher than 1.026? ..last calibration and how?
mag?
temp is all a little on the high side
how long have you been using the lights? ...when you say 6" above glass top does that mean your tank is covered?
are you dosing anything and how?
thats all i can think of
you can feed the zoas something like coral frenzy or reef chili but not sure its nessecary
could your salinity be higher than 1.026? ..last calibration and how?
mag?
temp is all a little on the high side
how long have you been using the lights? ...when you say 6" above glass top does that mean your tank is covered?
are you dosing anything and how?
thats all i can think of
Here is my take on Zoas. They are finicky. Just about as finicky as SPS IMO. Now they are much more hardy then SPS, by far. However, for me some days they are open and beautiful and some days they are closed and mad. Some zoas are open all the time and some zoas are always angry. I think of my reef as a classroom. You do your best to teach all the children and if you are a good teacher then everyone listens for the most part. But with every large group there is always going to be one bad apple who just doesn't listen! Just be stable with whatever you do and if it doesn't come around then it probably wouldn't have came around in just about any captive system. Some corals just do better in the ocean, regardless if its SPS, LPS, zoas etc. Some just do better in other systems. There are just so many different parameters, potentially thousands and we only test for a handful. Don't overreact, 9/10 times when we try to correct something it just makes the situation worse.
Ammonia level?
Alk is alright, but boosting it slightly to 10-11 dKH wouldn't hurt unless you're Carbon Dosing.
Making sure the Specific Gravity is accurate as dv3 stated wouldn't hurt either, lowering temp slightly to 78-80 would be beneficial at this altitude as well.
If Salinity is fluctuating between top offs, that may be contributing in a small system like this.
For feeding, again, as dv3 stated, typically not needed for Zoas, but if you like, Oyster Eggs, ground up Cyclopeeze, or simple Amino Acids and Carbs are often the best for zoanthids. Just be careful not to over do it.
When all else fails, changing the water never hurts as long as temp, SG, and PH are matched up ahead of time. The nice thing about Nano tanks is large scale water changes are pretty painless.
Didn't mean to come across as belittling, but we've got to have something to go on in order to trouble shoot!
Alk is alright, but boosting it slightly to 10-11 dKH wouldn't hurt unless you're Carbon Dosing.
Making sure the Specific Gravity is accurate as dv3 stated wouldn't hurt either, lowering temp slightly to 78-80 would be beneficial at this altitude as well.
If Salinity is fluctuating between top offs, that may be contributing in a small system like this.
For feeding, again, as dv3 stated, typically not needed for Zoas, but if you like, Oyster Eggs, ground up Cyclopeeze, or simple Amino Acids and Carbs are often the best for zoanthids. Just be careful not to over do it.
When all else fails, changing the water never hurts as long as temp, SG, and PH are matched up ahead of time. The nice thing about Nano tanks is large scale water changes are pretty painless.
Didn't mean to come across as belittling, but we've got to have something to go on in order to trouble shoot!
Yeah.... Just up and melt is how I feel. I am an experienced reefer and know that this happens but found myself compelled to seek advice, hoping someone knew something I did not. The thing is that I can assure everyone that this is not a parameter issue. I keep everything in check and it's a very stable system as there is only one small angler in the tank. I will say this, I've had luck with dozing vitamin c for zoas that are struggling.
1
I have been keeping zoas for 4 years. My nice ones I keep two separate colonies of. I have had times where one just up and melts but the other one is fine. I keep the nice ones on a frag rack and they never have any issues. This leads me to believe it is an inhabitant of the tank that possibly upsets the zoas that grow on rocks. My radioactive dragon eyes melted 4 months ago and they are one of the most common ones out there. Usually if my levels go out of whack a little the zoas simply close up a little, I do a water change and they end up fine. For them to go off and melt I believe something irritated them. Just my humble theory.
