Alk will not go up.

ReefCheif

Reef Shark
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#22
J.guokas;292566 said:
Do you think it would help me out?
Ive never used it to help me chase anything, only to maintain so Im not sure. Id be happy to give you a cup full to try out if you want. You know my #!!
 

Munch

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#23
J.guokas;292566 said:
Do you think it would help me out?

Simplify... The more you add to the mix, the harder it'll be to diagnose the problem.
 

J.guokas

Cleaner Shrimp
M.A.S.C Club Member
#24
Munch;292568 said:
Simplify... The more you add to the mix, the harder it'll be to diagnose the problem.
True. I was thinking for after I get the levels where I want them then use the balance to help keep them where I want them.
 

Walter White

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#25
Just curious what salt are you using? And how often are you doing water changes? The only reason I ask is the parameters you are describing is what I had when I was using kent and doing 20% weekly water changes. I had a hard time keeping my alk up using kent even with dosing. Not saying kent is a bad salt or anything obviously it works well for allot of people. However this was the main reason I stopped using it.
 

FishTV

Sting ray
M.A.S.C Club Member
#26
Blindrage;292477 said:
Alk and CA are tied together. If you CA test is not reporting correctly and your CA is actually going higher then that would explain why your Alk is dropping.
Agree, If your CA is 500+, you could stop dosing CA until you get it to read on your test kit, and see if it has an affect on your Alk. I have a similar problem, except I dose with Kalkwasser, have to constantly dose Alk to keep it in line. I'm actually going to take the kalk stirrer offline this weekend, and only dose Alk to try to get it back into check. Will update you if I get any positive results.
 
#29
ThunderTwonk;292616 said:
Just curious what salt are you using? And how often are you doing water changes? The only reason I ask is the parameters you are describing is what I had when I was using kent and doing 20% weekly water changes. I had a hard time keeping my alk up using kent even with dosing. Not saying kent is a bad salt or anything obviously it works well for allot of people. However this was the main reason I stopped using it.
I had issues with Kent, but this was years ago. I bought a 5g bucket of the stuff and gave it away after only a handful of water changes.
I ended up using Reef Crystals and dosing with a Seachem powdered product (reef bufer?) . This worked for me, and my tanks always had a good amount of LPS, so daily usage/absorption definitely was noticable.
 

mikejrice

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#30
H2O_intolerant;294458 said:
Just read this thread. I'd start by raising my mag. I'd raise it 100ppm per day until you hit 1500+. There's not really a downside from too much mag (unless, of course, you raise it too fast)
The downside to too much magnesium is higher calcium saturation potential and as a result usually low alkalinity.

Balance!

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Cake_Boss

Blue Whale
M.A.S.C Club Member
#31
mikejrice;294564 said:
The downside to too much magnesium is higher calcium saturation potential and as a result usually low alkalinity.

Balance!

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
My bad, my statement was in regards to livestock, http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/10/chemistry

" Bingman12 pointed out in a previous article that at elevated concentrations (>8,000 ppm), magnesium has been used as an aid in shucking oysters, helping to force the oyster open,12-14 and also as an anesthetic for them.12 Consequently, magnesium does have potentially negative biological effects at significantly elevated concentrations."

In regards to your statement, I believe you are incorrect as well,

" The main thing happening in normal seawater is likely the impact of magnesium (though phosphate and organics may play an important role in some aquaria).24 This is the point that magnesium gets onto the growing surface of the crystal, essentially poisoning it for further precipitation of calcium carbonate. Since magnesium can reduce the likelihood or extent of calcium carbonate precipitation in this fashion, it thus acts to make it easier to maintain high levels of calcium and alkalinity."

Both of these exerts taken from http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/10/chemistry, RHF.

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mikejrice

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#32
Magnesium is the fulcrum point that calcium and alkalinity are balanced on either side of.

In cases with high calcium and low alkalinity, the fulcrum is most often offset towards calcium which helps to create that imbalance. In order to balance out the teeter totter of carbs/bi-carbs, you will be best off adding weight to the alkalinity side while taking weight off of the calcium side. As the weight comes off the calcium side, the fulcrum will also naturally shift towards the opposite allowing your alkalinity to get a boost towards the safe range.

Conversely, adding magnesium to a tank with high calcium and low alkalinity will move the fulcrum towards calcium increasing the saturation point and increasing the proportions in which buffer must be added to counter balance the carb/bi-carb ratio.

When moving calcium and alkalinity either up or down together, it can be helpful to move the fulcrum with them, but when you are attempting to re-balance the carb/bi-carb ratio, moving the fulcrum will create less predictable results.
 
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