Phosphate

MuralReef

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#21
I leave my lights in 24/7. Everyone has a preference some do a reverse light cycle and others do 24 hours.
 
#23
The light cycle really depends on the specie of macroalgae(s) you are growing. From what I understand, 24x7 light cycles for sumps are great for caulerpa because it can prevent it from going sexual if you do not trim it back often enough. If you choose to go with chaetomorpha, then I would recommend at least a reverse 12 hour light cycle. I like to use a ~16 hour light cycle, just remember for optimal growth rates of the macro(= less bad nutrients in the water) then you do need a dark period.
 

MuralReef

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#24
I don't have issues with phosphates or algae running 24/7. Should I be running a reverse 12 hr cycle? I'm thinking if it ain't broke...
 

Dr.DiSilicate

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#25
MuralReef;271848 said:
I don't have issues with phosphates or algae running 24/7. Should I be running a reverse 12 hr cycle? I'm thinking if it ain't broke...
What kinda macro do you have? Depends...
 

MuralReef

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#26
Just chaeto. I have something else growing but I'm not sure what it is and a few spots of dragons breath.
 

Dr.DiSilicate

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#27
MuralReef;271850 said:
Just chaeto. I have something else growing but I'm not sure what it is and a few spots of dragons breath.
I'd go with a 16 hour cycle. Just don't need to run the light 24/7. Save a bit of power.
 

FinsUp

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#28
Like Algaebarn said - running 24hpd is theoretically supposed to keep certain kinds of caulerpa from going asexual and taking over. If you don't have those kinds of macro, offsetting your sump light and dt light will help keep your pH from swinging from day to night.
 

Rumen

Tang
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#29
goslugsgo;270634 said:
I tested today at .04. I know .00 is best, but what is acceptable? How can I get it down?
I use to run rowa and that kept my phosphate at .00 all the time...but I notice my sps frag took a long time spread on the frag plug..?so I asked crisc @ aa about it and he told me sps like a little phosphate. ..so now I keep mine at .06 and sps is growing at a much faster rate.... that's just my experience. ...

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 4
 

goslugsgo

Blenny
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#30
Wow, that seems like a lot of phos.
I did have a source-water issue and as soon as my BRS order comes it will be addressed. I've really been enjoying my tank (not that there's much in it lol). A monti I got a few weeks ago appears to be doing well, so I think the tank is definitely on the road to recovery.

I'll work on getting some chaeto. Thanks all who have participated in this thread! I look forward to meeting you at the upcoming meeting.
 

goslugsgo

Blenny
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#31
The source water was showing .03 so I swapped out the filters and cleaned the reservoir. Just tested and got... point oh friggin three.
Could the RO membrane be compromised?
 
#32
goslugsgo;274058 said:
The source water was showing .03 so I swapped out the filters and cleaned the reservoir. Just tested and got... point oh friggin three.
Could the RO membrane be compromised?

Let it produce a couple gallons. Then test it. Are you using an RO or RO/DI? Make sure the filters are properly seated too
 

goslugsgo

Blenny
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#33
It had produced over 50 gallons when tested. It's RO/DI. I'll check the filters.
 

jda123

Dolphin
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#34
It is more likely the test kit. Do you have another one to try?

Test some bottled water and see if it comes out .03 or zero.
 

goslugsgo

Blenny
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#35
I'll get some bottled water and test that. I'd be surprised if the issue is the kit. It's a lab-grade Hanna.
 

Haulin Oates

Reef Shark
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#36
goslugsgo;274132 said:
I'll get some bottled water and test that. I'd be surprised if the issue is the kit. It's a lab-grade Hanna.
Don't ever be surprised about any kit being bad. I've had so many bad nitrate kits it's not funny.


Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things!
 

goslugsgo

Blenny
M.A.S.C Club Member
#37
Let me rephrase: I'd be friggin ****ED if the issue is the kit. It's a lab-grade Hanna.
 
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