Tear down and rebuild

MuralReef

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#1
So I will be replacing my tank hopefully soon and I was wondering how I should go about doing this. When I have done this with freshwater I just drain it save most of the water transfer all livestock and go from there. I will be doing this with a 225. I want transfer most but replace some of the sand. I also want to set up the rock and actually cement the rock together. I thought I would just use a 2 part salt safe epoxy. If I am saving the rock, sand, and most water do I need to cycle the tank? I assume I will have some kind of mini cycle after the sand settles. Should I keep the fish out until the sand settles? Plus I will need some containers/brutes/vats for temporary storage. I don't have a tank yet but I think I am close...still thinking about it...
 

Andrew_bram

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#2
Tear down and rebuild

I have hydralic cement you can use. I am actually getting good with it Greeneyedgirl is the pro though.
 

kio707

Tang
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#3
Tear down and rebuild

I've moved several tanks. If you want, pm me and I'll tell you my mistakes in hopes of helping you be successful. But containers for rocks, fish, and corals is a must. Take your time. I'm in the springs, but your more then welcome to borrow some HOB filters for your fish and corals, just to get you going. Also may have an extra heater or two u can borrow. I'll try to get some tough boxes if you wanna borrow those for containers. Just let me know.


David
 

FinsUp

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#4
I'd recommend not re-using the sand if the tank it's in has been set up for a while. There can be toxins in it that will nuke your new tank.
Save as much of the water as you can. You'll use it to keep your rock wet.

Here's how I recommend doing it:
Drain some water into a container for your corals. Put corals into that container, being careful not to have them touching each other if you can help it.
Take rocks out and put them into various stock tanks/tubs/buckets, covering with tank water as you go.
Drain remaining water into other buckets/tubs.
Try not to disturb the sand, if you can help it.
Put fish & cleanup crew into containers without rocks (multiple containers keep them from fighting).
When water is drained out, then pull out sand and dump it.
Move old tank out of the way.
Clean up the area, and set up the new tank. Keep water flowing and at temp for fish, corals, and rocks if this is going to take a long time.
Put in new sand (check www.marcorocks.com- their sand is awesome and cheap), then start building your rock formations. I like the 'cement' from Marco Rocks for locking things into place.
Once the rocks are in place, put a plate on the sand and fill the new tank with water (pouring water on the plate reduces cloudiness a bit). Putting a filter sock on the drain tube into your sump will help filter out the sand, too. Then put your corals and fish in their new home and have a drink. You've earned it.
 

Dr.DiSilicate

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#5
I'd rather see ya replace the sand completely. Digging it up and moving it can cause a cycle. You're better off replacing it. You are probably in for a small cycle no matter what.
 

J.guokas

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#6
Tear down and rebuild

I have a bag of polite sand that's never been opened. I'd be willing to trade it for a coral or two If you're interested. Replacing the sand is the best route IMO. Like others have said moving the old sand over can cause a headache.
 

FinsUp

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#8
I was wondering how you got your sand to behave well. Mine is just out and out rude.
 

J.guokas

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#9
Tear down and rebuild

CindyL;249174 said:
I was wondering how you got your sand to behave well. Mine is just out and out rude.
It took me a while but it finally learned some manners :)
 

daverf

Tang
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#10
Wow, Cindy wrote the book on tank moves!

Personally I would put the rock down before the sand. I am tired of fighting sand issues (and impact on tank quality, period) and have read too many horror stories about use of DSB in a display (for good example look up ReefChief's horrors in his display moves on this site), so I don't want to have any anaerobic pockets under rock or anything.

Otherwise just make sure you check both the new stand and tank are level (to ground and each other - on all 4 planes of each), both when empty and full. It would add a huge step to fill up the new tank with freshwater and do a test run with equipment/leveling etc, but I personally would never skip that step. So you can drain the tank and adjust leveling before final filling, if you have any issue.

Cindy would you want to put a little rock in the livestock tanks? So they don't lose the bio filtration? Maybe that's a bad idea, since the stressed fish have a bigger chance of hurting themselves on it?
 

FinsUp

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#11
daverf;249204 said:
Wow, Cindy wrote the book on tank moves!

Personally I would put the rock down before the sand. I am tired of fighting sand issues (and impact on tank quality, period) and have read too many horror stories about use of DSB in a display (for good example look up ReefChief's horrors in his display moves on this site), so I don't want to have any anaerobic pockets under rock or anything.

Otherwise just make sure you check both the new stand and tank are level (to ground and each other), both when empty and full. It would add a huge step to fill up the new tank with freshwater and do a test run with equipment/leveling etc, but I personally would never skip that step. So you can drain the tank and adjust leveling before final filling, if you have any issue.

Cindy would you want to put a little rock in the livestock tanks? So they don't lose the bio filtration? Maybe that's a bad idea, since the stressed fish have a bigger chance of hurting themselves on it?
Thanks. I started with a 35 gal hex tank, and upgraded repeatedly because I'm completely addicted to this silly hobby. Did it wrong enough times that I'd hate to see someone else make the same mistakes that I did.
Checking for level is critical, and a step that I left out. I'd say it's safe to do just a partial fill with freshwater to check level but still save time.
I have tried rock foundations under the sand, and maybe it's because I'm not a big planner, but I wound up not using them after all. I just push the bottom rock down into the sand until it touches glass and call it good.
The process can be done in a day, even less depending on how fast you move, so I don't think adding rock to livestock tanks is really critical.
 

jahmic

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#13
You can also put the livestock in 5gal HD buckets with a few drops of Prime for good measure...that way any ammonia that builds up won't be toxic.

You actually have it fairly easy since you don't have to do a move. Just drop some powerheads in the buckets for circulation and you should be good to go. Let me know if you need to borrow any buckets...I probably have at least 5 or 6 with lids that you can borrow, I also have 3 or 4 koralias to drop in them for circulation.

Don't hesitate to ask for a hand when it comes time to do the tank swap!
 

Dr.DiSilicate

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#14
Tear down and rebuild

Plus 1 on prime! That stuff is awesome. Couldn't think of the name last night.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

jda123

Dolphin
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#15
Do you have the ability to set the new tank up ahead of time? If so, do it. Get the sand in, get some new saltwater in there and move about 20% of the your old water to get the bacteria growing.

The most important thing: get some frags of your most prized corals to a friend, or two.
 
#16
Another question. When you take rock out of water, in this case to cement together, won't there be a die off causing a decent ammonia spike? I had this happen when I left the rock out of water for 5 minutes and I imagine it'll take at least 30 to get the rock cemented, or can the Marco cement be used with the tank already filled?
 

jda123

Dolphin
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#17
Yes, if it is out for too long. If you use some kind of hydraulic cement, then make sure it does not have to fully cure to not be toxic - some will, some won't.

I might suggest that you get all of the rock in the tank ASAP, then in a few days/weeks take some out to putty it on a board in front of the tank. Do 1/4 at a time over a few weeks and you should be able to absorb the mini-cycles. You don't have to do all of this at once. Most tank moves are months and months in the making.
 

FinsUp

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#18
There will be a small amount of dying off, but that will be minimized if you keep the rock wet by spraying it with tank water. No matter what you do, there will be a mini cycle. Ideally, the live rock would go into the sump, and all new dry rock would get cemented together ahead of time and put in the tank, but I didn't want to assume that he had the funds to buy new rock.
 

Andrew_bram

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#19
Tear down and rebuild

Hydralic cement can be done under the water. It's potable water safe its for wells and cisterns. I have a bag of Fiji pink live sand if needed.
 

jda123

Dolphin
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#20
Some hydraulic cement can really raise the PH (like 8.6+) level if it is not cured. Nearly all of it is fine once it is cured. Just be careful and do you homework. Not all of it is safe to cure in saltwater where major and minor elements are present for the compound to react with, whereas these elements are not available in such quantity in freshwater. If you are unsure, just wait for it to cure before you put it in the tank.
 
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