¡RP's 250 build!

daverf

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#81
Not sure on the external overflow question, but seems you could use the w/c hole as both a return and w/c if you plumb it with a T and valves on the bottom fitting and middle fitting of the T. The middle fitting could plumb to the water change hose, the bottom fitting could be used like a normal return line. When the pump is running, close the w/c middle T valve. When it is off and you're doing a WC, close that valve and open the w/c middle T valve. Hope that makes sense.

Or you could just plumb the return over the top/back of the tank.

Now a question for you on your main tank. Do you siphon when you do w/c's? Curious to know your w/c routine in this regard.
 

cdrewferd

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#82
I was at the aquarium this weekend and they had a full size Saddleback in the cylinder tank with the nems. It was gorgeous. Wish mine was still alive.
 

Cake_Boss

Blue Whale
M.A.S.C Club Member
#83
Re: ¡RP's 250 build!

cdrewferd;226274 said:
I was at the aquarium this weekend and they had a full size Saddleback in the cylinder tank with the nems. It was gorgeous. Wish mine was still alive.
In the clown/nem tank? I'm jealous

daverf;225221 said:
Not sure on the external overflow question, but seems you could use the w/c hole as both a return and w/c if you plumb it with a T and valves on the bottom fitting and middle fitting of the T. The middle fitting could plumb to the water change hose, the bottom fitting could be used like a normal return line. When the pump is running, close the w/c middle T valve. When it is off and you're doing a WC, close that valve and open the w/c middle T valve. Hope that makes sense.

Or you could just plumb the return over the top/back of the tank.

Now a question for you on your main tank. Do you siphon when you do w/c's? Curious to know your w/c routine in this regard.
W/c, what's that?! Maybe I should start doing them....:confused: I would prob do 30g biweekly, if I had the space. I just don't have space to store a 30 g barrel. Maybe I can rig something up under the tank.

Combo hole it is, on the frag tank.


Well, everything isn't all sunshine and rainbows. The butterflies have something, could be ich, could be lympho. The Pakistani has it the worst. The tangs don't really seem to show anything, the sohol will flash occasionally, but he's been doing that since day 1. What's weird is that the butterfly isn't flashing at all. All fish are eating, the butterflies are slowly eating other stuff besides bloodworms. I've been mixing metro in with their frozen food, and garlic. Been feeling heavier just in case it is ich.
 

daverf

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#86
How's the Ich?
 

Cake_Boss

Blue Whale
M.A.S.C Club Member
#87
Re: ¡RP's 250 build!

First victim claimed.

So metro in the display was prob not a good idea, but then again, putting multiple tangs in a 20T tank isn't any better.

I did see a spike in glass algae, unsure if it's the metro or fish/maybe invert death.

I started aeration the same day as starting metro. It's day two, nobody is flashing but I still see spots
 

daverf

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#88
Sucks, bro. Good luck.

Maybe you want to get ready to switch treatments in case another dies? Could go from worse to nuke. Get a big water change ready, get carbon/skimmer ready to go back online? I lost $1K of fish to Ich about 6 months ago so I've tried/failed on lots of methods.

From my experience, a fast drop in hypo will drop all spots within a few days and give fish immediate relief. So if all else fails you could ready for that.

Anwyay I'll shut up. I go on and on about Ich around here. May the force be with you.
 

MartinsReef

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#89
Re: ¡RP's 250 build!

do you use a uv sterilizer?

Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using Tapatalk 2
 

Cake_Boss

Blue Whale
M.A.S.C Club Member
#90
Re: ¡RP's 250 build!

daverf;227589 said:
Sucks, bro. Good luck.

Maybe you want to get ready to switch treatments in case another dies? Could go from worse to nuke. Get a big water change ready, get carbon/skimmer ready to go back online? I lost $1K of fish to Ich about 6 months ago so I've tried/failed on lots of methods.

From my experience, a fast drop in hypo will drop all spots within a few days and give fish immediate relief. So if all else fails you could ready for that.

Anwyay I'll shut up. I go on and on about Ich around here. May the force be with you.
Metro is just what I bought "in case" turns out I needed it. I have some Herbtana I can use next. To tell you the truth, I'm hesitant on using CP, Cu, or hypo. I like having my inverts, I don't want the rock to absorb the CP (or metro for that matter), and release it later. Hypo would for sure nuke most everything, I just don't have the ability to do that large of a w/c (I can do 20g). Better the inverts than the fish though.

MartinsReef;227591 said:
do you use a uv sterilizer?

No.

Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using Tapatalk 2
 

daverf

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#92
Aaah you have inverts...I hear ya, hypo, CP, CU definitely not in the tool shed for this one... If you have to pull the trigger on main tank I guess CU may be best? Would kill the inverts but there are known/full adsorption methods (polyfilter/cuprisorb) and tests so you would be able to fully remove it from the tank with time and confirm it is gone...CP is a crapshoot, you may never know if it is out of the tank...
 

Cake_Boss

Blue Whale
M.A.S.C Club Member
#94
Re: ¡RP's 250 build!

rings343;227595 said:
damm man that sucks you think its all from that free rock?
Maybe, once I added that rock things started going downhill.

MartinsReef;227818 said:
With that many tangs I would look into a UV.
Will do

daverf;227597 said:
Aaah you have inverts...I hear ya, hypo, CP, CU definitely not in the tool shed for this one... If you have to pull the trigger on main tank I guess CU may be best? Would kill the inverts but there are known/full adsorption methods (polyfilter/cuprisorb) and tests so you would be able to fully remove it from the tank with time and confirm it is gone...CP is a crapshoot, you may never know if it is out of the tank...
I might just have to do that. You think of be alright pulling all the rock (put it in the stock tang for a few months, kind of a fallow period), and doing mechanical filtration in the meantime?
 

Dr.DiSilicate

Great White Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
ex-officio
#95
¡RP's 250 build!

My female clown seems to have ick. She isn't eating and breathing hard. Just a couple dots on body but must have it in her gills. This really sucks! I feel for ya man. I am going to put up my uv for all it's worth (very little but everything helps) good Luck.
 

daverf

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#96
H2O_intolerant;227867 said:
I might just have to do that. You think of be alright pulling all the rock (put it in the stock tang for a few months, kind of a fallow period), and doing mechanical filtration in the meantime?
Great idea, kill 2 birds with one stone. Treat the fish in the main tank, pull out rock and let it be fallow. While you're at it, you really should pull as much of the substrate as possible. Not only will it soak up copper, it will big-time throw off your test results. If your tests are wrong, you could kill everyone with a high dose (or kill no Ich with a low dose).

So I thought about this. Since you have limited water reserve, I think CU is your best bet, because you can adsorb it fully out of the tank after running and don't have to cycle through tons of water to get it out. Since you're not going to siphon as much due to limited water (which means you won't get the non-swimming cysts on tank bottom out), you'll need to run copper longer (because kills it in swimming stage only, not cysts) and run an elevated temp (which accelerates Ich cycle...so you're waiting less time for cysts to hatch and swim...to hopefully reduce length of time that copper is needed). So I would run it for longer than the suggested 3-4 weeks that one can do when they siphon regularly.

I would pick your poison, start the lower level dosing, and continue research to decide what ppm (such as .3 for ionic) and duration you want to do. There are lots of suggestions out there, many (including me) use Cupramine. Just try to match the copper test kit to the manufacturer you use and test before you redose.

I would not jump to a non bio filtration situation in the main tank, any ammonia exposure for already very weakened fish could be real bad. You may want to sacrifice one rock, leave it in the tank, so there is some nitrifying bacteria that stay behind. If possible, I would then try to get seeded bio media into your tank in the next week. Until then, maybe cut back big time on feeding.

One other thing. I would have some bacterial supplements (such as dr. tim's one and only) on hand and watch ammonia/nitrite levels closely, but DO NOT use Ammonia reducers unless you google the Copper/ammonia products combo and make sure they are not a lethal combination. For example, Cupramine plus Prime equals reduction to toxic copper, could kill everything (it sure would be nice if Seachem put that on their product bottles).

Anyway sorry for the novel. Hope that helps. Get other opinions, I may not have the best suggestions!
 

Cake_Boss

Blue Whale
M.A.S.C Club Member
#97
Re: ¡RP's 250 build!

I've been researching like mad, disease isn't really my thing. Bob suggests hypo (1.01sg min) +Cu, I doubt my ability to keep salinity stable though, an ato has little bit of give (negligible maybe?).

Thanks for the tips on cu and brand matching, also the prime/cupramine combo...as that was what I was going to use.

Second treatment of metro administered, don't see spots anymore, but vlamingii has popeye now.
 

Cake_Boss

Blue Whale
M.A.S.C Club Member
#99
Re: ¡RP's 250 build!

Causality number two, black saddle butterfly.

Got a new skimmer, cadlights TIA-1220. This thing is super quiet.


Also picked up this guy,


And a UV light for the pesky ich.

I'm having an issue with the skimmer (reaction chamber only fills up halfway) and the reactor (pump is noisy, vibration). Another member already got his skimmer to pull some skimmate. Is this part of my break-in, where he didn't have one? The rep said that the water level didn't matter as long as the the pump inlet was fully submerged, it's sitting in 7" right now.

Anyone else plug in their reactor yet? How the pump sound?

Edit, tightened down the pumps, the reactor is quieter. Could be better, but good enough. I really notice how loud the mag is now.

Did anyone glue the fittings on the reactor down?

About the skimmer, somehow I thought that the adjustment pipe could only turn 1/8 turn. Nope, turned it the appropriate amount, all better now. I also removed the skimmer from the stand, helped with the noise a lot. It's sitting in 13" of water currently.
 
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